Harley Trip - Laos 2010 - Part Three

Harley Tour - Laos - 2010

Part 3

Day 12 - approx 120 km around Phon Savanh

Out early, free breakfast in the hotel it is 6:00 to 8:30, that's ziehmlich early for me.

Then off you go, exploring the area. At first I tuckere along the old road towards Xiang Khouang, which was the former capital of Province, about 42 miles from Phon Savanh. The road is very good and a little small river meanders along through a nice valley. Past the entrance to the Plain of Jars Site 1, today I want to look at the other sites, site 2.3 & 4

A few kilometers further, then the sign [J o Plain site 2 & 3, 12 km]. So right and one long one Holperstrasse. Since I've scared me ziehmlich in this area a disk drive, I focus mainly to the large, sharp rocks to avoid, therefore, I actually get from the environment is not very much. At one point, I come across a paddock and I wish me that I could exchange it for one my scooter.

Despite bad roads to continue, my goal in mind. After about 10km, we go left and the road is even worse. Wet clay and a rather slippery. But I let myself be put off of it until I come then to the last hill. 250 meters before the finish, I'll give it to final. What is too much is too much! It would perhaps have gone uphill, but then they slide back down again, no, no way. So it went back empty-handed on the road.

Site-2-time-to-turn-back 250 meters before the finish, but reichts now!

So a site no problem, but everything else is only 4 × 4 or a good dirt bike!

Continue to Khoung Xiang, through a fantastic little valley through between freshly planted rice fields. Wonderful colors and it's a great trip.

The town itself is surrounded from mountains and hills, the market is the center of attention. A few tourists to fight over the few attractions that the town has to offer, the old stupa, a Buddha statue ziehmlich battered and a bit outside the village there is still such an old rusty Russians - around tanks.

Since just the same with me a Japanese bus has arrived and who crowd just to see who can make the most photos of the couple of things out there to see, I do not climb on my moped, but doing the same return and make myself , lazy as I am, back on the way back.

Just a trip down through the mountain valley, since otherwise even today hinmuss nowhere, I let my time tuckere and left through the small villages and waving to all children whether they want it or not. Road-to-Xiang-Khouang

Drive through the Valley to Xiang Khoung

In the evening at the hotel I met two Irishmen and Mr Yee, their leaders, who are traveling with dirt bikes. They come from the direction in which I want to get updated very often and because some valuable information about road condition and distance distribution (by gas station to gas station).

The-Irish-lads-and-their-guide-Mr.-Yee Whether you are probably smarter than me?

But since I'm a tank full of almost 250 km, because I'm not very many worries. And according to their information, the streets will be great and not pose a problem for me and my scooter. It's still quite amazing how roads that are indicated for a very good motocross rider, the Harley riders let their hair stand on end. Well, from experience, man / woman is then finally wise!

Day 13

The longest routes section, about 550 km around the plateau, and over four mountain passes of Ponh Savanh - Muang Kham - Nam nine Viang Thong - Viang finally to Nong Kham khiao.

The normal cry, I do not want to bore you, the first nice 70 or so km to Muang Kham, cozy down, advance curves, nice, good road, fifth gear legs. Then it curved, so what I've never seen mountains almost 400 km down the left, right, up hill, a true sense, what a ride. Super street with little traffic. Some 3-4 km do not turn, I come from the 2nd Course does not get out .... left, right, left, right ..... I call moped driving, as they used to when driving through the slalom poles slide ...... indescribable.

Curve-#-2.345-(and-counting) Motorcycle slalom!

Somewhere between there was then a half hour rain. It's strange how quickly transforms a super-curve road into a slippery distinction ...., winding river and how fast a wonderfully unspoiled countryside area abandoned to God, if it really pisses and looking far and wide alone is ......... Well , belongs to the doubt whether it was really a good idea to launch out into the rainy season belong, just for bikers everyday.

But no sooner hears the rain, the world is right again, and again I'm sure it was a good idea!

And then came the kick in the butt if I catch is that Mr. Yee, who has tells me about a good road, then it sour .... Somewhere between Viang Thong Kham Viang and then listens on the asphalt and on it goes over a bumpy 60 km. Mr. Yee ( yeeluanglasa@hotmail.com .), you will get some time again to hear from me what I ask myself whether I Pausenlos have strayed from the right path, but everyone I ask tells me that I'm right in the direction Luang Prabang. However, no two people in this Geged agree about the distance. I get everything from 100 km, 500 km and 3 days!? to hear.

Well, at least in the right direction and I holpere continue through the area.

Since then comes the sign on the roadside, which I suggesting that people here in the area are proud of the fact that there are wild tigers. The smoke breaks were fewer and shorter breaks Pinkel will understand how each.

Tigers-available "We are proud to have Tiger here"

Slowly it is late afternoon, I have no idea where I am and to the small pumping station and gas stations Cola bottles, the more expensive fuel.

Meanwhile, I'm from 9,000 kip to 11 - and 12,000 kip per liter, which are now 1 ½ USD for one liter of fuel (1, - is about USD 8.200, - Kip).

In the mountains I pass Bergdoerfern beautiful, but when I'm somewhere in the valley or near a river, because the population has very little inspire confidence. All the rivers and creeks are heavily dug up there, I think there will be mined for gold, and just to see villages and the people from. As man knows it from the TV ... so Goldgraeber Gestallten ... but not the romantic of Karl May, but the others who have found nothing, and therefore, are acidic.

Unbelievable-views-of-Landscapes-and-villages Breathtaking views

After hours of rocking, I'll be back to pass on such a height.

As a French girl .... is her bike, almost by micht hauts stools ...

But she tells me very happy, that it comes from the other side of Nong Khiaw, about 25 km further down the road is good and she has made only very loosely on a little trip. No reason to tell her that I, the great biker and adventurer, with very mixed feelings'm geholpert through the area to arrive at this pass height.

From then on, the road is really good again and hey presto the last few kilometers down the mountain, everything is wonderful again.

I ride in Nong Khiaw, a wonderful little place to meet in a valley where two rivers. Fantastic surrounded by mountains, with some nice restaurants and Gasthaeusern.

Aaahhhhh, a cold beer Lao and everything is perfect.

Arrival-in-Nong-Khiao First look at Nong Khiaw

In addition to the many km, the expensive gasoline, the Tigers and the fearsome Goldgraebern I had today brought even my most dangerous part of my trip (I hope at least) behind me.

Immediately after the turn in Muang Kham, it goes over a small, 5 meters high hill, behind such a Wasserbueffel stands in the middle of the road.

Turn-off-in-Muang-Kham-and-ascend-to-the-Waterbuffalo-hill Turn-off in Muang Kham and driveway to the hill-Wasserbueffel

With tires screeching, I reach 30 cm in front of him. He still sees me stupid for a while before he is from the field (street) makes.

And so it went on all day. Since I can not remember the names of places I've named the villages therefore, after the animals are my gelatscht the moped and where I've always just done by a hair, to pass in order to save her life and mine.

Since then, the village was the three little pigs, the calf-village-dog village which is 20 meters further umbnannt into the village duck, then came the two chickens and a rooster village, the big pig and goat village and the successful conclusion then the Potter Village.

In the Potter Village were for some reason more people on the roadside as is otherwise normal, actually, it must have been those who have lived there can.

All waving and cheering, and I raised left hand ... proud ... they welcome all friendly. Then suddenly Depp jumps onto the roadway and gives me a handshake ..... To me it has almost dislocated his shoulder, and I would be nearly tumbled off the bike. Although I was luckily quite slowly, but reach 30 km / h when the man with one hand on the handlebars and festhaelt sudden and surprising profusely about Potter is welcomed so warmly.

Well, I got rocked by it and as Potter goes I do not know, have not looked back. But I guess, "we have both learned something today!"

Day 14

About 270 km Nong Khiaw - not to Uudom Xai - Luang Prabang

(6 km mountain bike as Fruehsport not included)

6:00 morning reveille. Before I do go I want to see me Pathok the cave. So get out of bed and into the climbing boots and get out into the street. The plan was, as always, does not exist. Any moped Fritze will take me on, for a few bills I'm still gone to everywhere.

Since I am now at a loss on the roadside and no one takes me! The Harley I will not start, I have more than enough dirt miles behind me and I know not how far the cave away from the main road.

The pub is opposite just opened and prepared for breakfast. Since I am able to get a Pepsi and collect some info.

The cave is about 3 km from the way back again, and not far from the main road. Well, I think, is 3 km + 3 km run I yes, I'm sure good. Here we go. On the next corner of the house is a sign ... Mountain bikes to rent ... well, who says since. I take my bike in most reception, the brakes, the landlord has negatively the required 20,000, - (USD 2.50) in hand and already I'm on cycling. Funny how the streets suddenly rise much steeper than I remembered. Thank God, the mountain was on my right to look really great, with the morning clouds that rose slowly from the slopes, he looked somehow as if the whole forest would burn and smoke rising everywhere. Amazing sight. Since I had a reason every 50 meters or so stop and have a photo (of the same mountain) to make (and to catch his breath.) So many photos like this morning I think I've still not on my whole trip to her made, and somehow all look the same!?

Picture-#-17-of-the-same-mountain-(seen-from-mountain-bike) As smoke rises in the morning mist from the mountains

Right and 20 meters is more then concluded bike park, entrance fee and we continue to walk a few hundred meters through the rice fields, and then I stand in front of the caves entrance. A steep wooden staircase / ladder leads about 15 m in height can be up to the man in the mountain clean. Since splashing around in the war has apparently verbunkert the entire government and the Military Command of the region.

temporary-Offroad-transportation Bike no longer Sometime it is also the best mountain

way-to-the-cave-Thaam-Pathok Walk to the cave Thaam Pthok

Entrance-to-Thaam-Pathok-Cave Up there in the pure mountain HERE

The cave itself is quite interesting to see (in the photos is all unfortunately only in black!) And the view from the entrance, get out on the rice fields to the road and the river which runs through is quite nice. The short trip was worth it anyway. Back to the village, make bike again.

The lender was quite shocked when he saw me again. He thought there was something wrong with the bike, because I had it brought back so soon. He immediately wanted me something else turn on, but panting, I tried to give him that the bike was ok, but not me and that I had for today cycled enough that he has not but understand, but just, he had his money already.

Moped saddle me goodbye and go towards Luang Prabang.

First I want to make a small detour and look at Uudom Xai. Turn right into Pakmong and again high in the mountains, about 85 km to the northwest, then that should be the northernmost point of my journey. But there is nothing out of it. The more I get the worse the road. Heavy rainfall over the last few days have unterspuelt whole sections of the road and sunk in the river. Every few km across was a landslide across the road. I do this with a few water holes and mud-slinging. At some point, then I see before me the black rain clouds, and on the road again as a mud hole.

Only-possible-way-in-and-out-of-Oudomxai-and-more-rain-clouds-approaching The only way to and from Oudom Xai and more rain clouds in the sky

Oudom-Xai-is-not-that-important,-time-to-turn-back As important may not be Oudom Xai

When I conceiver that out, the only other road from Oudom Xai, leads to China and if I continue conceiver that back in another downpour, the road then all is gone, then the decision is legally taken quickly: How important is Oudom Xai not. Hand, Marsh and the same mudslinging back down mountain. The 40 km up and then down again cost me all morning, it is 1.00 clock when I arrive back in Pakmong.

From then on it's back on the N # 13 is now finally settled to Luang Prabang.

About 110 km, the road of well-known quality and with a beaming face and legs stretched forward, it goes pretty fast there. Great, finally, once again accelerating. A little more than an hour later I'm in Luang Prabang.

A beautiful city by Asian standards and very clean. Everywhere temples (wats) and pagodas. Beautiful restored colonial Haeser are transformed throughout the old city core in Guest houses and pensions. I have no problem finding a nice little guest house (with indoor parking for the moped). I put up at the Suan Kaew Guesthouse. Wonderfull Holzhaeuschen, nice, very clean rooms, hot shower, fan, good bed ... all I need. USD 10 -

Beautifull-old-town-center-in-LP,-green-and-clean Neat, clean streets in the center of town, Luang Prabang

Checked in and satisfied with the result, I only care with me again for my motorcycle. Because in the mountains I was going quite slowly, I of course used for the km-made double the time and therefore, I think that the oil change after about 1200 km can be no harm, and he was not.

The oil was very dark. So just in time. Even still wash and then let off with a lap of honor around the city and then into the parking lot. Harley has for the next 36 hours vacation. Morning walk heck going to go through the city of 1000 temples, which I will durchdruecken on foot.

Same down the road I find a nice garden restaurant, the Antique House restaurant and there is the cheapest beer sold throughout Laos. (10,000 or under are at least 8000, it is not normally) 7,500 kip I've saved a lot of money.

For dinner, I've been fobbed me on the roadside by a nice, old, tubby Lao woman for their sandwiches. A normal good Lao food in the restaurant costs so the 25,000, 15,000, and my sandwich costs took 2 to be fed, well I had previously saved on beer.

And then diarrhea all night. I'm sure the good woman her own sandwich has never eaten before. With such a diarrhea, they would have never can be perfectly round.

Day 15

0 km (but at least gelatscht 10) Wats, temples and pagodas are beautiful really, but very many of them. Eventually, they will see all kind of similar. After that, I'm climbing around all morning and had photographed everything I need to prove that I was here, I admit defeat and return ueblerlasse the monasteries the monks, which is indeed in Luang Prabang is also more than enough.

Wat-Thaam-Phousi-on-the-highest-hill-in-the-center-of-Luang-Prabang The highest point in Luang Prabang

Beautifull-budhist-statues-are-all-over-the-place Impressive school of Buddhism statues standing around everywhere

On my way through the city I also bought some cuddly little girls compulsory Backpacker bracelets. Although these things are worthless, they cost even more. Thus, a braided plastic cord will cost USD 3.75 times the same, not bad the woodpecker, but the little girls were all sooo sweet.

Now I have a bracelet for: good luck, for one: money for the school, for one: money for the family and another one for: good luck and I'm back here back. The next for: money for the school I will not buy anymore because I already knew the saying yes.

Nevertheless, as I said, Luang Prabang is really the most beautiful city I have ever seen in Asia. Really worth seeing.

Since I do not want to repeat toilet night necessarily, I opted for a dinner in one of the most expensive-looking restaurants. Bakery & Pizza House in Luang Prabang, just off the main mile. The pizza for 70 000 Kip was rock hard and apart from the wobbly in the middle part, not really edible without special tools. (Good luck in Luang Prabang Bakery & Pizza House ... and as a business idea for lovers of Luang Prabang: dental practice next door, should run well), the beer will cost exactly twice as much as in "my favorite bar" around the corner from my guest house. Since I am now and then also have tried the beer-average price to reduce as much as possible.

Day 16

230 km Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

At 4.00 I was woken up by massive Regenstuermen. I'm not quite sure whether it continues today. So turn on music so loud that I and probably all the remaining guests in the hotel, listening to the rain no longer turn around and go back to sleep.

9:00 still heavy rain. According to reports, there were serious mountain-slide on the road between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Tourists roll in the ready-made gritty horror stories of 23 hour bus ride / wait / ride. Statements after apparently desperate to close the entire stretch from here to zugeschuettet Vang Vieng! At 10.00 it hears while raining but new and stronger rains are foretold, so at least says my host, who likes that I want to stay a few days.

With some doubts about the wisdom in the belly of my decision, I'm still packing my suitcase and moped to the saddle.

At 11:00 I take my leave of the hospitable people in Suan Kaew Guesthouse and make me despite all the warnings on the way. The option to be back again soon, but I let myself open. On the other hand, it's pretty easy to figure out that if it rains again, and stronger, then tomorrow will do nothing more and I'm really stuck here for some time.

So, off we go, just so about 150 km on the N # 13, again over the mountains to Phou Khoun.

There is first a large market that I want to see me and 2 the branch where I'm at right Herweg bent to get to Ponh Savanh. At this intersection, then closes the circle and then from there it goes again on familiar streets the way back to Vang Vieng.

I've raved about in my earlier reports, more than enough about the streets, the nature of the thousands of huge curves, the mountain villages, children and so on. Nevertheless, it had the first 120 km from Luang Prabang to Phou Khoun again really in it. Has surpassed all previous records yet again. Just incredible.

Sun 30 kilometers before I reach the junction known then it starts. Because really massive landslides had been sent over the whole road. There must be half the mountain came down. I imagine that must have been here the journey last night, in darkness and heavy rain, the purest hell.

mudslide-have-been-cleared-but-slippery-as-hell Evacuated but still slippery ziehmlich

Nevertheless, or precisely the reason, Lao hat off to the organizers. Excavators, bulldozers, snow plows and whatever else is in full operation and the road freed up completely. But this does not mean that herunterlaeuft not more than enough mud to the mountain and the road around the whole thing so slippery and greasy as you can make. A slight, but extremely annoying drizzle sets in and makes things worse. Cars stuck everywhere and trucks loaded with blocked wheels slide backwards down the road again. I watch like a tank truck slipped backwards straight into the ditch. For cars there is no possible to get through, not in the next few hours, anyway.

They-waited-for-hours,-I-didn't-(smile) Since I am equally proud head held vorbeiduesen,!

With the scooter, you know. Both boots as Stuetzraeder benutzend, sticking up to their ankles in mud, I probably look more like such a ski-bob-driver, or something, but it goes slowly but steadily uphill.

A few games were already slipping become due but a drop could be prevented until the end. So I made my way, smiling and proud over with her head held high at all waiting cars, buses and excited tourists, pigs, chickens, goats, etc., through all the rotten mud holes up and back down the mountain. About 50 km, of which at least half was a very nasty slide.

new-definition-of-Truck-Stop The hats will not make it that gives the word "truck stop" but also like a new meaning

At the market in Phou Khoun I'm about three hours later slipped past.

But eventually even that was over, the eternal, annoying drizzle to listen, the clouds thin out and the sun rays come through.

The last 50 km down the hill to Vang Vieng is a dream again, and soon the whole mud-massel forgotten. At first, I'm still a bit wobbly on his feet. The muddy soles of the feet constantly slipping screens and the wheels and fenders are completely filled with clay and mud. A couple of slippery curves are later then the tires at least clean-ish and I am now so fast that the dirt so slowly dissolved and (mostly over my head, everything else in my face) is thrown away in a high arc. Thus I have a to-Self-cleaning moped, that is good!

Incredible-views-from-the-Road-side Unbelievable training and Views

With blue skies and sunshine, it then goes down through the beautiful valley of the mountain and cheerful in front of the helmet-me-out-whistling, back towards Vang Vieng. The children waved no more in my sight, some are hiding behind their parents, others run behind the house or teal behind / under wood pile!? Although it took me almost 6 hours for the 230 km, I'm glad (and proud) that I am now set out. And soon I was sitting back in the Aussie bar in Vang Vieng and I've only handle again the dust / mud washed out of the throat. A few beers later and still in the dirty twine and shoe then I went to my old guest house to ask for a room. After I had a lot of mud from my face I was also recognized and welcomed friendly.

What-a-ride!!!-back-to-Vang-Vieng Madness, what a ride back to Vang Vieng!

Day 17

So far, 0 km, cozy breakfast to write this report and any further plans. Before tomorrow nothing happens more magnificent. In my more than wet genugen glissade, which I enjoyed yesterday, I do not even out with the rubber ring to once again be wet and dirty. So I'm sure ziehmlich one of the first tourists who visited twice in Vang Vieng and not gone through the tubing and thus have not acquired a right to wear the "Tubing T-Shirt".

Since I am the total outsider, but happy and alive.

The 4th Part of my report will follow soon .... so if someone is too boring, just do not look ........

Greetings from Vang Vieng,

Cheers, and keep the rubber side down!

Werner, your Lone Brother in Laos

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One Response

  1. Wollo Says:

    Hi Werner
    accompanied by envy you.
    Hot Tour
    If you're back Claus Greetings from me.
    Wollo

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