Lone Brothers MC

Harley Tour - Laos - 2010

Part 3

Day 12 - Approximately 120 km around Phon Savanh

Frueh out, complimentary breakfast in the hotel it is 6:00 to 8:30, that's early for me ziehmlich.

Then off you go, exploring the area. At first I tucker along the old road towards Xiang Khouang Province which the earlier was the capital, about 42 miles from Phon Savanh. The road is very good and meanders along a small Flusschen through a nice valley. Passing the entrance to the Plain of Jars Site 1, today I want to look at the other sites, Site 2.3 & 4

A few kilometers further, then the sign [J o Plain site 2 & 3, 12 km]. So right and one long one Holperstrasse. Since I've ziehmlich fear me in this area to a disk drive, I focus mainly on the large, sharp stones to avoid, therefore, I actually get from the environment with not very much. At one point, I pass a paddock and I wish that I could do a swap for my moped.

Despite poor road continues, my goal in mind. After about 10 km, we go left and the road is even worse. Wet clay and fairly slippery. But I let myself be deterred them not, until I come to the last hill. 250 meters before the finish, I give then to Final. What is too much is too much! Uphill, it might have gone, but then they slide back down again, no, no way. So it went back empty-handed back on the road.

250 meters before the finish, but enough!

So one site no problem, but everything else is only 4 × 4 or a good dirt bike!

Continue to Khoung Xiang, through a fantastic little valley through between newly planted rice fields. Wonderful colors and it's a great trip.

The city itself is encircled between the mountains and hills, the market is the center of attention. A few tourists to compete for the few sights that the village has to offer, the old stupa, a battered ziehmlich Budha statue and a little outside the village there is still such an old rusty Russians - rum tanks.

Since just the same with me, a bus arrived and the Japanese is just jostling to see who can make the most of the photos couple of things out there to see, I do not climb on my moped, but make the same returns and make me , lazy as I am, back on the way back.

Simply a trip down through the mountain valley, because otherwise I nirgens hinmuss yes today, I let my time and Tucker left through the small villages and waving to all children whether they want it or not.

Drive through the Valley to Xiang Khoung

In the evening at the hotel I met two Irishmen and Mr Yee, their leaders, who are traveling with dirt bikes. They come from the direction in which I want and there reflects valuable information about road conditions and route allocation (by gas station to gas station).

Whether you are probably smarter than me?

But since I'm a tank full of almost 250 km, because I'm not very many worries. And their information to the streets to be great and not pose a problem for me and my scooter. It's still always amazing how roads that are indicated for a very good motocross rider, let a Harley rider's hair stand on end. Well, from experience, man / woman is then finally wise!

Day 13

The long section, approximately 550 km around the entire plateau, and over four mountain passes of Ponh Savanh - Muang Kham - Nine-Viang Nam Thong - Viang finally to Nong Kham khiao.

The usual, I do not want to bore you, the beautiful first 70 or so km to Muang Kham, cozy down, advance curves, beautiful, good road, fifth gear legs. Then it curved, so what I've never seen mountains about 400 km down the left, right, up hill, a true sense for what a ride. Super street with little traffic. Partly 3-4 km do not switch, I'm from the second Course does not get out .... Left, right, left, right ... .. I call moped driving, as they used to drive the rail through the slalom poles ... ... indescribable.

Motorcycle slalom!

Somewhere between there was then a half hour rain. It's odd how quickly transforms a super-curve road to a divorce .... Slippery, winding river and how fast a wonderfully unspoiled countryside to God-forsaken country, if it pisses so right and looking far and wide alone is ... ... ... naja , belongs to the doubt whether it was really a good idea to drive off into the rainy season belong, just for bikers everyday.

But as soon as the rain stopped, the world is right again and again I'm sure it was a good idea!

And then came the kick in the ass when I catch is that Mr. Yee, who have told me of a good road, then it ... sour. Somewhere between Viang Thong Kham Viang and then listens on the asphalt and on it goes about 60 km over bumpy one. Mr. Yee ( yeeluanglasa@hotmail.com .), you'll eventually get something more to hear from me without pause, I wonder if I have strayed from the right path, but everyone I ask tells me that I'm right in the direction Luang Prabang. However, no two people in this Geged agree about the distance. I get everything from 100 km, 500 km and 3 days!? to hear.

Well, at least in the right direction and I continue to bounce around.

Since then comes the sign on the roadside, which I suggesting that people here in the area are proud of the fact that there are wild tigers. The smoke breaks were fewer and shorter breaks Pinkel will understand how each.

"We are proud to have Tiger here"

Slowly it is late in the afternoon, I have no idea where I am and to the small pumping station and Coke bottles of gasoline stations is more expensive.

Meanwhile, I'm from 9,000 kip to 11 - and 12,000 kip per liter, which are now 1 ½ USD for a liter of fuel (1, - is about USD 8.200, - Kip).

In the mountains I pass beautiful hill tribe villages, but when I'm somewhere in the valley or near a river, because the population has very little to inspire confidence. All the rivers and streams are heavily dug up there, I think there will be mined for gold and just see villages and the people from. As man knows it from the TV ... so Goldgräbe staked ... but not the romantic from Karl May, but the others who have found nothing, and therefore are acidic.

Breathtaking views

After hours of rocking, I'll be back to pass on such a height.

.... As a French woman stands with her bike, micht hauts almost from the stool ...

But she tells me very happy that she comes from the other side of Nong Khiaw, about 25 km further down the road is good and she has made only very loosely on a little trip. So no reason to tell her that I, the great biker and adventurer with very mixed feelings'm geholpert through the area to arrive at this pass height.

From then on, the road is really good again and hey presto the last few miles down the mountain, again just fine.

I ride one in Nong Khiaw, a wonderful little place to meet in a valley where two rivers. Fantastic surrounded by mountains, with some nice pubs and restaurants.

Aaahhhhh, a cold beer Lao and everything is perfect.

First look at Nong Khiaw

Besides the many km, the expensive gasoline, the Tigers and the fearsome Goldgräbe I had today brought even my most dangerous part of my trip (I hope at least) behind me.

Immediately after the turn in Muang Kham, there is also a small, 5 meter high hill, behind such a Wasserbueffel stands in the middle of the road.

Turn-off in Muang Kham and driveway to the hill-Wasserbueffel

With tires screeching, I reach 30 cm in front of him. He still sees me stupid for a while before he is from the field (street) makes.

And so it went throughout the day. Since I can not remember the names of places I've named the villages, therefore, after the animals are my gelatscht pilot scooter and where I've always just done by a hair's breadth to come by in order to save her life and mine.

Since then, the village was the three little pigs, the calf-village, the village-dog which is 20 meters further umbnannt in the village duck, then came the two chickens and a rooster village, the big pig and goat-village and good conclusion to the then-village of Potter.

In the Potter Village were for some reason more people on the roadside as otherwise normal, actually, it must have been all that can have as usual.

All waving and cheering, and raised his left hand ... I proudly welcome you all ... friendly. Since Depp suddenly jumps on the track and gives me a handshake ... .. I liked it almost dislocated my shoulder and I nearly tumbled off the bike. Although I was fortunately quite slowly, but reach 30 km / h when the man with one hand on the handlebars festhaelt and suddenly and surprisingly ways of Depp is welcomed so warmly.

Well, I've rocked by Potter, and how it goes I do not know, have not looked back. But I'm going to assume: "We have both learned something today!"

Day 14

Approximately 270 km Nong Khiaw - not after Uudom Xai - Luang Prabang

(6 km mountain bike as Fruehsport not included)

Frueh 6:00 reveille. Before I do go I want to see me Pathok the cave. So get out of bed and into the climbing boots and get out on the street. The plan was, as always, does not exist. Any moped Fritze will take me on, for a couple of bills I'm still gone to everywhere.

Since I am now at a loss on the roadside and no one takes me! The Harley I do not want to start, I have more than enough dirt miles behind me and I know not how far the cave away from the main road.

The pub is opposite just opened and prepared for breakfast. So I guess only time a Pepsi and gather a few tips.

The cave is about 3 km from the way back again, and not far from the main road. Well, I think, can I run 3 km + 3km yes, I'm sure good. Here we go. On the next corner of the house is a sign ... Mountain bikes to rent ... well who says it. I take my bike in most reception, the brakes, hit the lessor the required 20,000, - (USD 2.50) in hand and already I'm on cycling. Funny how the streets suddenly rise much steeper than I remembered. Thank God, the mountain was on my right to look really great, with the morning clouds that rose slowly from the slopes, he looked somehow as if the whole forest would burn and smoke rising everywhere. Amazing sight. Since I had a reason every 50 meters or so stop and have a photo (from the same mountain) to make (and again to catch his breath.) So many photos like this morning I think I've still not on my entire trip to her made, and somehow all look the same!?

Smoke rises as the morning mist from the mountains

Right and 20 meters is then further concluded bike park, entrance fee and it continues to walk a few hundred meters through the rice fields, and then I get up in front of the caves entrance. A steep wooden staircase / ladder leads about 15 m in height can be up to the man in the mountain clean. In there has apparently bunkered in the war the entire government and the Military Command of the region.

Bike no longer Sometime it is also the best mountain

Walk to the cave Thaam Pthok

Since going up in the pure mountain

The cave itself is quite interesting to see (in the photos everything is unfortunately only in black!) And the view from the entrance, out into the rice fields to the road and the river which runs through is quite beautiful. The short trip was worth it anyway. Back to the village, make bike again.

The lender was horrified when he saw me again. He thought there was something wrong with the bike, because I had it brought back so quickly. He immediately wanted me another turn on, but panting I tried to convey that the bike was ok, but not me and that I had for today cycled enough, what he has while not understood, but it is, he had his money so.

Moped saddle me goodbye and off we go towards Luang Prabang.

First I want to still make a small detour and look Uudom Xai. Turn right into Pakmong and again high in the mountains, about 85 km to the northwest, then that should be the northernmost point of my journey. But there is nothing out of it. The further I get the worse the road. Strong rainfalls in the last few days have unterspuelt whole sections of the road and sunk in the river. Every few miles was a landslide across the road. I do this with a few water holes and mud-slinging. Sometime I see before me, then the black rain clouds and on the road again as a mud hole.

The only way to and from Oudom Xai and more rain clouds in the sky

So important can not be Oudom Xai

When I think of that out the only other road from Oudom Xai, leads to China and when I look further representer that back in another downpour, the road then all is gone, then the decision is legally taken quickly: How important is Oudom Xai not. Returns the same march and mudslinging back downhill. The 40 km up and then down again cost me all morning, it is 1.00 clock when I arrive back in Pakmong.

From then on it's back on the N # 13 is now finally to Luang Prabang.

Approximately 110 km, the road from well-known quality and with a beaming face and legs stretched forward, it goes pretty fast then. Great, finally, once again accelerating. A little over an hour later I'm in Luang Prabang.

A beautiful city by Asian standards and very clean. Everywhere temples (wats) and pagodas. Beautiful restored colonial Haeser are reconstructed in the entire old town area in Guest houses and pensions. I have no problem finding a nice little guest house (with indoor parking for mopeds). I put up at the Suan Kaew Guesthouse. Wonderfull Holzhaeuschen, nice, very clean room, hot shower, fan, good bed ... all I need. USD 10 -

Neat, clean streets in the center of town, Luang Prabang

Checked in and satisfied with the result, I look again at my first motorcycle. Because in the mountains I was going quite slowly, I of course used for the km-made double the time, and therefore I think that the oil change after about 1200 km can be no harm, and he was not.

The oil was already dark ziehmlich. So just the right time. Also, wash it and then let off with a victory lap around the city and then into the parking lot. Harley has for the next 36 hours vacation. Heck morning walk start walking through the city of 1000 temples, which I will durchdruecken on foot.

Right down the street I find a nice garden restaurant, the Antique House restaurant and there is the cheapest beer sold throughout Laos. (Or at least 8,000 are below 10,000, it is not normally) 7,500 kip I've saved a lot of money.

For dinner, I can turn on my side of the road from a nice, old, tubby woman Lao their sandwiches. A normal good Lao food in the restaurant costs so around 25,000, my sandwich will cost 15,000 and it took me 2 to be fed, well I had previously saved on beer.

And then the whole night diarrhea. I'm sure the good woman her own sandwich has never eaten before. With such a diarrhea they could never be perfectly round.

Day 15

0 km (gelatscht but at least 10) The Wats, temples and pagodas are really beautifully, but very many of them. Eventually, they will see all kind of similar. After that, I am climbing around all morning and had photographed everything I need to prove that I was here, I admit defeat and return ueblerlasse the monasteries the monks, which it indeed in Luang Prabang is also more than enough.

The highest point in Luang Prabang

Impressive Budhist statues standing around everywhere

On my way through the city I also bought some cuddly, little girls, the compulsory Backpacker bracelets. Although these things are worth nothing, they cost even more. Thus a braided plastic cord will cost USD 3.75 times the same, not bad the woodpecker, but the little girls were all sooo sweet.

Now I have a bracelet for good luck, for one: money for the school, for one: money for the family and another one for good luck and I come back here back. For the next: money for the school I will not buy anymore because I already knew the saying yes.

Nevertheless, as I said, Luang Prabang is really the most beautiful city I have ever seen in Asia. Really worth seeing.

Since I do not want to repeat toilet night necessarily, I opted for a dinner in one of the most expensive-looking restaurants. Bakery & Pizza House in Luang Prabang, on the main mile. The pizza for 70,000 Kip was rock hard and apart from the wobbly in the middle part, not really edible without special tools. (Good luck in the Bakery & Pizza House in Luang Prabang ... and as a business idea for lovers of Luang Prabang: dental practice next door, should run well), the beer will cost exactly twice as much as in "my favorite bar" around the corner from my guest house. Since I am now and then also have tried the beer-average price to reduce as much as possible.

Day 16

230 km Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

At 4.00 I was woken up by massive Regenstuermen. I'm not quite sure whether it continues today. So turn on music so loud that I and probably all the remaining guests in the hotel, hear the rain no longer turn and go back to sleep.

9:00 still heavy rain. According to reports, there were serious mountain-slide on the road between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Tourists roll in the ready-made tales horror stories of 23 hour bus ride / wait / ride. Statements after apparently desperate to close all the way from here to zugeschuettet Vang Vieng! At 10.00 while it hears the rain, but rainfalls are vorrausgesagt new and stronger, so at least says my host, who would like me to stay a few days.

With some doubts about the wisdom in the belly of my decision, I'll still grab me to the saddle bags and scooter.

At 11:00 I take my leave of the hospitable people in Suan Kaew Guesthouse and make me despite all the warnings on the way. The option to soon be back again, I leave myself open, however. On the other hand, it's pretty easy to figure out that if it rains again, and stronger, then do nothing more is tomorrow and I'm really stuck here for some time.

So, away you go; and only then about 150 km on the N # 13, again over the mountains to Phou Khoun.

There is first a large market that I want to see me and 2 the branch where I'm at right Herweg bent to get to Ponh Savanh. At this junction so then closes the circle and from then on it's back on familiar streets the way back to Vang Vieng.

I've raved about in my previous reports, more than enough about the streets, the nature of the thousands of giant curves, the mountain villages, children and so on. Nevertheless, it had the first 120 km from Luang Prabang to Phou Khoun again really in itself. All previous records were surpassed again. Simply indescribable.

Sun 30 km before I reach the junction known it then goes off. Because really massive landslides had been sent over the whole street. There must be half the mountain came down. I can imagine that the journey must have been here last night, in darkness and heavy rain, the sheer hell.

Evicted but still slippery ziehmlich

Nevertheless, or precisely for the reason, Lao hat off to the organizers. Excavators, bulldozers, snow plows and whatever else is in full operation and the road cleared of completely. But this does not mean that herunterlaeuft not more than enough mud to the mountain and the road around the whole thing so slippery and greasy as you can make. A slight, but extremely annoying drizzle sets in and makes things worse. Cars stuck everywhere and trucks loaded with blocked wheels slipping backwards down the road again. I watch like a tank truck straight backward slide into the ditch. For cars there is no possible to get through, not in the next few hours, anyway.

Since I am equally proud heads held vorbeiduesen,!

With the scooter, well. Both boots use as Stuetzraeder, stuck up to their ankles in mud, I probably look more like such a ski-bob-driver, or something, but it goes slowly but steadily uphill.

A few games were already slipping due but a drop could be prevented until the end. So I made my way, smiling and proud all over with her head held high, all waiting cars, buses and excited tourists, pigs, chickens, goats, etc., through all the rotten mud holes up and back down the mountain. About 50 km, of which at least half was a terrible slide.

The hats will not make it that gives the word "Truck Stop" but also like a new meaning

At the market in Phou Khoun I'm about three hours later slipped past.

But eventually even that was over, the eternal, annoying drizzle ceased, the clouds thin out and the sun rays come through.

The last 50 kilometers from the mountain down to Vang Vieng is a dream again, and soon, the whole mud-pig forgotten. At first, I'm still a bit wobbly on his feet. The muddy soles of the feet constantly slipping screens and the wheels and fenders are completely filled with clay and mud. A few slippery curves are later then the tires at least reasonably clean and I am now so fast that the dirt so slowly disbanded and (mostly over my head, everything else in my face) is thrown away in a high arc. So I have a to-Self-cleaning moped, that's good!

Unbelievable training and Views

With blue skies and sunshine, it then goes down through the beautiful valley of the mountain and cheerful in front of the helmet-me-out-whistling, back towards Vang Vieng. The children waved no more in my sight, some are hiding behind their parents, others run behind the house or teal behind / under wood pile!? Although it took me almost 6 hours for the 230 km, I'm glad (and proud) that I am now departed. And soon I was sitting back in the Aussie bar in Vang Vieng and I've only once Strengthen the dust / mud washed out of the throat. A few beers later and still in filthy twine and shoe then I went into my old guest house to ask for a room. After I had removed a lot of mud from my face I was also recognized and greeted kindly.

Madness, which for a ride back to Vang Vieng!

Day 17

Until now 0 km, cozy breakfast to write this report and any further plans. Nothing happens tomorrow before more magnificent. In my more than wet enough glissade, which I enjoyed yesterday, I do not even out with the rubber ring to once again be wet and dirty. So I'm sure ziehmlich one of the first tourists who visited twice in Vang Vieng and not gone through the tubing and thus have not acquired a right to wear the "Tubing T-Shirt".

Since I am the total outsider, but happy and alive.

The fourth Part of my report is supposed to follow soon .... If someone is too boring, just do not look ... ... ..

Greetings from Vang Vieng,

Cheers, and keep the rubber side down!

Werner, your Lone Brother in Laos

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