Lone Brothers MC

Harley Tour - Laos - 20101 - Part 4

Day 18

Approximately 450km Vang Vieng to Thakhek

It sounded for a cozy day. 450 km seems like a lot, but I knew the roads and their condition. Thus, it should be to create the loose in 6 hours.

Well-rested, just out of bed at 9:00. Say goodbye to Steve and his gang, and let off you go only towards Vientiane, the city then left lying (or in this case the right), 12 km before entering the city there is a bypass road to me directly on the S 13 and further brings to Thakhek.

Aussie Steve and his gang

Easy. So far so good!

80 km further then I liked the light from the scooter. One screw and the second was from a very, very loose. Well, raise the middle of Laos Sun Imperialist inch bolts, which should be fun.

Now I must be purely to Vientiane, which is a detour, but I had seen during my previous visit a Land Rover business, so there's still hope. So about 90 km as slowly as possible and avoiding unnecessary jolt to Vientiane. Although I have seen a Land Rover mission, but did not know where the best of intentions. Could really only be so somewhere around the two Syri guesthouse around, otherwise I was never really been far away.

After an hour wandering around loose in the city plan, I've finally found and they could not cure me of course. But she knew of a small motorcycle shop in the vicinity and had my way.

There is a small Werkstaette and such a nice Laotian who speaks not a word of English, but the whole is viewed and silently in front of my scooter.

The broken screw is still in the thread and must be surgically removed first. Moped dismantle and remove the Gabelbruecke, a little bit to weld the old screw loose and spin out, everything goes in a flash. Then screw everything back together, no problem, he has done ratzfatz.

Then we tried to screw the light head again, but since the problem began. He had screws but mm thread, and the fit just does not exist.

But also because he knows Council, sits on his scooter and disappeared.

No 5 minutes later he is back and has 2 old rusty bolts while the match .... I would be most like him, arms around his neck.

So all together yourself and you're done. Super and in the middle of Laos. And Price:

Legendary U.S. $ 5 - (or 40,000 kip). Since I as yet knew that it pulled the plug on the steering head has turned over and gave me the thread in the Gabelbruecke broken, I give him 50,000, and am absolutely happy.

Now it's 3:15 and I'm sitting in Vientiane, a city which I have absolutely no desire.

Again my better judgment, I sit down on the scooter and go duese, Thakhek direction.

What a shit idea, which was now again. But what the hell, I survived habs.

6:30 wirds naehmlich dark and I'm still 100 miles from Thakhek.

Now I know why Lao was on streets during the day ever so little traffic. All the trucks, large buses, actually have to carry all the points which allowed only 7:00 in the evening on the road, and they are then all. And they all seem to have agreed to meet me and go and hide me in the eye. I am moving parts as only a 5 km / h and the absolute flying blind. 50 kilometers to thank God, then it starts to rain yet, and the manure is perfect. Raindrops on my glasses and truck lights distort the whole look into what undefinable. I feel my walking pace along the roadside. Suddenly I'm not from the oncoming truck geblended, it would be a sudden be light. Immediately, in the brakes and stop. Since running, no ½ meter before me, a black cow across the road. I would have never seen the cattle when they are not in the short term, the lights of the truck would have obscured. Wow, that was close. What the hell do I have to continue, there's this nothing more the last 50 km to Thakhek, not a village, not a guest house.

I can do it but then at some point, without bigger problems, but that I now have much time left early, which I have bitterly regretted.

Thakhek itself is not really worth talking about. Probably the dirtiest village I have seen for some reason, Laos and the most expensive. Here, everything costs twice as much as anywhere else in Laos. It seems somehow as good a starting point for many tourist attractions to be. Jungle trecking, kayaking, climbing, caves, waterfalls tours, elephant etc .... here is a lot to offer, so ziehmlich are few tourists in town and everyone will be excluded.

Day 19

50 km in order to, through and around on Thakhek.

It may not be particularly big blooms here, but it rained all morning and I do not really continue in this weather. What the hell, the guest house I had found the Thakhek Travel Lodge, is indeed quite expensive for what they offer (in proportion to the other squares where I was before) but otherwise really bearable. Well, since I'm stuck and so am not so eigentlch gleucklich about it. Since I've now finally time for me to take care of my hobby. I collect license plates, and if possible, then I look for one in every country where I am. Since Thakhek actually like a big pile of garbage ausssieht the possibility exists that even one or two broken car in the entire scrap it is. Here we go, again I moped and chattering from all the side streets throughout the village and also find such an old scrap yard where they saw up old cars. The numbers are all off and I just want to go on a quest, as one plumber calls me back and points to an old moped zerdeppertes, there's a number to it. Everybody can stand on today's date, I believe hardly Kann. An ancient part, totally kaput, and apparently this thing is already years in the muck and back there on it is 03-08-10! Incredibly, today is the 3rd Aug, 2010, which I must have. As will be discussed seriously, and for $ 2.75 I ersteigere me then this indicator. Abgeflext and wonderful. The guy who also wants to pounce like about my Harley down and flex my number. He seems to be of the opinion that I wanted to replace the numbers. I defend my bike and manage to make it in the condition it is in the. I pocket the old number and leave a couple of clueless Laotians ....... what this Touri wanted again??

What a find! The date fits.

Day 20

About 500 km from Thakhek Kong to Iceland (4000 islands) so about 30 km from the border to Cambodia.

Cozy Sleeping is removed, 6.30, and out onto moped. The S 13 along the detour Saravanh I leave out, and I'll make it easy for about 7 hours on the boat landing place where to take the "ferry" on the main island (Kong Iceland) of the 4,000 islands in the Mekong. So I grab my bike now but for such a cobbled together, and trust me on the boat the Mekong floods.

Not very considered trustworthy, but it floats.

That one in the bow of a boat, vegetables and herbs grown in the floorboards Increases my confidence in the whole craft is not really. But since we already put it is now too late to change my mind at once.

Herb garden on board!

Kong is actually quite nice, but not really spectacular. I think there would have to man now on the smaller islands that are there in heaps in the Mekong downriver distributed everywhere. Because apparently have to be anywhere guest houses and bars on all reasonably accessible islands. Backpacker I meet rave about the beauty of the idyllic and small islands. The parties seem to be there every night partying and the relaxed island life have it done to them.

Since I do not hinkann as a moped, I'll find out on this trip, but unfortunately do not own. Since the main island road, surrounded by an asphalt is still the same me I'm on a reconnaissance trip. Eie island is bigger than I thought, but about 20 minutes in so I'm I'm around the whole island. Very nice landscape, with rice fields and small fields, all a bit mini, I get the impression that before it even Wasserbueffel on the island is smaller than on the mainland.

A few beers on the banks of the Mekong and nice chatting with fellow travelers have a quiet and pleasant evening.

Day 21

Km - not a plan (but ultimately Kong Iceland to 800 km from Siem Reap)

When I come quickly over the border, then I go to Phnom Penh today, that would then so about 650 km, at the border when I need a long time, then I'm behind my plan, in Cambodia, I know my yes.

5:30 Wake up, I want to be first at the border before any tourist buses arrive.

On the ferry, this time I catch a big ferry, there are 3 boats nailed together and I am assured that go on it because cars! Who wants to put a car on this island? Well, I was even with a Harley there, perhaps there really any more of these ... rueber shore, about 40 km to the border.

Limit: The Zoellner have all slept half and were happy as they were going down again, so no problem, I'm through, and it is grad times 7.30.

Weather great and I am in high spirits. Although Cambodia has more traffic than in Laos, but I'm making good progress. Stung Treng, Kratie, Memot and on to Kompong Cham, about the great Mekong bridge and further you go.

The bike riding is so much fun that I shall conclude not to go home, but to make a side trip to Siem Reap. Although I was already a few times at Angkor War, but never my Harley. So now everything fits perfectly and the schedule is changed. I risk a glance at my rear tire, which is quite nice down. But I do not let this spoil my mood, and here we go ......

Right direction and in Kompong Tom and on to Siem Reap. I reach so about SR at 5.00 clock in the afternoon, which were now almost 12 hours of travel time, with border, fill up and smoke breaks for about 800km. Not bad, but I'm done.

Too tired to really eat much and drink, I fall into bed soon.

I live in the Sam So Guesthouse at the Wat Bo Street. A / C room 12 USD for get updated very often - one with a fan will cost 8 -. Very nice Khmer family, absolute clean room, fridge, TV, hot shower, everything your heart desires.

Day 22

Not a lot of miles, but I'm looking for a rear tire, I dare myself go with the old not 20 km more to think not because I am doing so on the way to Phnom Penh.

Now it gets about time!

I chattering all the repair shops that I know do not know, and to think I am being sent off and can not find a tire. In a Werkestaette because it is a nice Maedel the law speaks good English and she is also very proud that they have the right tire for me. 110/80/16, a bit narrow, but when it is nothing else would fit ... and I'm at it to buy the tires. Nevertheless, I would like to see in me first. The plastic is processed and there is still a wonderful motocross tires with 3 cm high tunnel to light, well that would be what has become. Although I know that if nothing else, I think I'll come here and back Assemble these tires. Better than my age, and in PP I can then sell it to a buddy of dirt bikes has, or exchange it for a small fee for a street tire, so the situation is shitty but not quite hopeless.

I drive on "Molly Malone" by House and see Thierry, an old friend already seated at the morning beer, ran right, pure, and am glad that this one is awake. Fortunately my Transalp Thierry himself, he does so well now and then a tire, maybe he knows something. He sees little hope for me then refers me to his friend Pepe but the Café Indochine, which in turn refers me to his French friend who apparently do a great Werkstaette and sell motorcycles. A Hope shimmering on the horizon. He describes the way and get going. The main road out # 6, the airport, Total petrol station on the right, just beyond the next right ....... not true, because I am then rumgekurvt long enough in the dirt. It is the last just before the Total Garage, which is the right ..... Have I then found out, too.

Since so sit a group of young Frenchmen who stand around so about 20-30 MACHINES of all sorts and sizes, I'm speechless. All 1300 Honda, 900 Triumph, Kawas, etc. Everything is what it is and with all French numbers on them.

Well, long story short. The boys knew where they find a tire for me. You've seen that have dripped my carburetor and replaced the broken slat. As a blade adapted from an old quad bike in my Harley carburetor, I'm speechless, by the way they have down to make the tank, never seen that myself, the screw has fallen out on the steering head .... as if to kick it a new one (they had to inch threaded bolt bearing ) they have determined that my buddy in Vientiane had turned the old thread in the Gabelbruecke.

Well, because they could not do much about it, but put through a thinner bolt and secure with nuts. A new thread cut and decent judge must I be comfortable in Sihanoukville or PP when I have time. Then they still mending my old helmet, because the belt was riveted again. While I have left my bike with them they gave me an unsolicited Honda CB 750, so I'm driving around in the meantime, what for. The guys were great class, thrilled at the work, friendly and absolutely helpful.

And has cost me the whole fun, incl tires, blade, screws, rivets, work, etc. all Leihmoped USD 90 -. So I did not expect more than fair and equitable. That's why I'm doing a little advertising for the boys.

So, if anyone has a moped problem once in Siem Reap, or want to buy a bike:

Le Garage, Siem Reap

Bertrand: tel 017 581 620

sebglassmanprod@live.fr

nicoglassmanprod@live.fr

bhuguenin@free.fr

Those are really nice guys ... and it also looks as if they were worried what they do.

Day 23

40 km from Siem Reap

Just laze around another day before heading back. The weather is gorgeous.

I also trust my quad bike and ride plate not therefore, here are a few miles through the neighborhood to see if it holds the whole or not. No problem, the thing seems to work, also holds the handlebars, and I'm happy with my new tires, the old one was really at the end. Since I was last down to the mm. Less than 50 km more and the thing would be probably burst.

The area around Siem Reap is fantastic, the temple is a madness, as always, and I Enjoy using the little drive.

One of the temples in Siem Reap, Angkor Wat - for all know that's not.

As I reported earlier in the tour so travelogues been to Siem Reap by bike and even a lot of photos AngkorWat have put into the net, I will not miss about it longer. Simply fantastic, glaubts me, and whoever wants to know more, or need info searched my old reports: wernermennel@ymail.com

Day 24

Approximately 400 km Siem Reap - Phnom Penh

At the beginning of my report I wrote: The roads in Cambodia are good and I come forward quickly. Well, after I got used to great roads of Laos, the way I come here more like patches carpets, no comparison with the quality in Laos. What the hell, I was also satisfied sooner.

Finally, again really good dinner at the Urs get updated very often in the "William Tell". Since I spoil myself again eimal with really good European food.

Day 25

Approximately 240 km Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville

Well, here again the great deliberation: rain suit or dress to make and drink beer until the rain is over.

Otherwise, nothing more magnificent on this track.

Finally back in Sihanoukville. Now, after approximately 6050 km I've driven in Leo in Bavaria, of course deserves a double lentil soup (with sausage). The old Bayer operates as a small pub and serves really good food. This lentil soup I was looking forward to the last 100 km or so.

Then there is of course back in the Lone Brothers Bar, our club house where my journey has finally officially to an end. Since there is cold beer, good music and a lot to tell.

Back home

So all in all:

Drove 6042 km in 25 days

No accident (no tiger bites or so)

2x almost died

Oil changed 3x (5x gear oil) = about 11 liters

42x tank (about 275 liters of fuel) yep so about 4 to 4 ½ liters per 100 km, is already, right?

2 rear tires used (but still on the same front tire that will soon become due

3x become wet (but really only once a dirty, the naehmlich from incipient!)

3x Gluehbirne replaced the tail light (probably slowed down too much?)

8x moped washed (leave)

3 days with 0 km - most of the day after the 800 km were from Kong Iceland Siem Reap

Drinking beer, I also a few who knows how many I have not.

And now I'm back.

Thanks and greetings to all those who have persevered this far and have read my entire report.

Cheers, and keep the rubber side down

Werner, your Lone Brother, back in Cambodia

Harley Tour - Laos - 2010

Part 3

Day 12 - approx 120 km around Phon Savanh

Out early, free breakfast in the hotel it is 6:00 to 8:30, that's ziehmlich early for me.

Then off you go, exploring the area. At first I tuckere along the old road towards Xiang Khouang, which was the former capital of Province, about 42 miles from Phon Savanh. The road is very good and a little small river meanders along through a nice valley. Past the entrance to the Plain of Jars Site 1, today I want to look at the other sites, site 2.3 & 4

A few kilometers further, then the sign [J o Plain site 2 & 3, 12 km]. So right and one long one Holperstrasse. Since I've scared me ziehmlich in this area a disk drive, I focus mainly to the large, sharp rocks to avoid, therefore, I actually get from the environment is not very much. At one point, I come across a paddock and I wish me that I could exchange it for one my scooter.

Despite bad roads to continue, my goal in mind. After about 10km, we go left and the road is even worse. Wet clay and a rather slippery. But I let myself be put off of it until I come then to the last hill. 250 meters before the finish, I'll give it to final. What is too much is too much! It would perhaps have gone uphill, but then they slide back down again, no, no way. So it went back empty-handed on the road.

250 meters before the finish, but reichts now!

So a site no problem, but everything else is only 4 × 4 or a good dirt bike!

Continue to Khoung Xiang, through a fantastic little valley through between freshly planted rice fields. Wonderful colors and it's a great trip.

The town itself is surrounded from mountains and hills, the market is the center of attention. A few tourists to fight over the few attractions that the town has to offer, the old stupa, a Buddha statue ziehmlich battered and a bit outside the village there is still such an old rusty Russians - around tanks.

Since just the same with me a Japanese bus has arrived and who crowd just to see who can make the most photos of the couple of things out there to see, I do not climb on my moped, but doing the same return and make myself , lazy as I am, back on the way back.

Just a trip down through the mountain valley, since otherwise even today hinmuss nowhere, I let my time tuckere and left through the small villages and waving to all children whether they want it or not.

Drive through the Valley to Xiang Khoung

In the evening at the hotel I met two Irishmen and Mr Yee, their leaders, who are traveling with dirt bikes. They come from the direction in which I want to get updated very often and because some valuable information about road condition and distance distribution (by gas station to gas station).

Whether you are probably smarter than me?

But since I'm a tank full of almost 250 km, because I'm not very many worries. And according to their information, the streets will be great and not pose a problem for me and my scooter. It's still quite amazing how roads that are indicated for a very good motocross rider, the Harley riders let their hair stand on end. Well, from experience, man / woman is then finally wise!

Day 13

The longest routes section, about 550 km around the plateau, and over four mountain passes of Ponh Savanh - Muang Kham - Nam nine Viang Thong - Viang finally to Nong Kham khiao.

The normal cry, I do not want to bore you, the first nice 70 or so km to Muang Kham, cozy down, advance curves, nice, good road, fifth gear legs. Then it curved, so what I've never seen mountains almost 400 km down the left, right, up hill, a true sense, what a ride. Super street with little traffic. Some 3-4 km do not turn, I come from the 2nd Course does not get out .... left, right, left, right ..... I call moped driving, as they used to when driving through the slalom poles slide ...... indescribable.

Motorcycle slalom!

Somewhere between there was then a half hour rain. It's strange how quickly transforms a super-curve road into a slippery distinction ...., winding river and how fast a wonderfully unspoiled countryside area abandoned to God, if it really pisses and looking far and wide alone is ......... Well , belongs to the doubt whether it was really a good idea to launch out into the rainy season belong, just for bikers everyday.

But no sooner hears the rain, the world is right again, and again I'm sure it was a good idea!

And then came the kick in the butt if I catch is that Mr. Yee, who has tells me about a good road, then it sour .... Somewhere between Viang Thong Kham Viang and then listens on the asphalt and on it goes over a bumpy 60 km. Mr. Yee ( yeeluanglasa@hotmail.com .), you will get some time again to hear from me what I ask myself whether I Pausenlos have strayed from the right path, but everyone I ask tells me that I'm right in the direction Luang Prabang. However, no two people in this Geged agree about the distance. I get everything from 100 km, 500 km and 3 days!? to hear.

Well, at least in the right direction and I holpere continue through the area.

Since then comes the sign on the roadside, which I suggesting that people here in the area are proud of the fact that there are wild tigers. The smoke breaks were fewer and shorter breaks Pinkel will understand how each.

"We are proud to have Tiger here"

Slowly it is late afternoon, I have no idea where I am and to the small pumping station and gas stations Cola bottles, the more expensive fuel.

Meanwhile, I'm from 9,000 kip to 11 - and 12,000 kip per liter, which are now 1 ½ USD for one liter of fuel (1, - is about USD 8.200, - Kip).

In the mountains I pass Bergdoerfern beautiful, but when I'm somewhere in the valley or near a river, because the population has very little inspire confidence. All the rivers and creeks are heavily dug up there, I think there will be mined for gold, and just to see villages and the people from. As man knows it from the TV ... so Goldgraeber Gestallten ... but not the romantic of Karl May, but the others who have found nothing, and therefore, are acidic.

Breathtaking views

After hours of rocking, I'll be back to pass on such a height.

As a French girl .... is her bike, almost by micht hauts stools ...

But she tells me very happy, that it comes from the other side of Nong Khiaw, about 25 km further down the road is good and she has made only very loosely on a little trip. No reason to tell her that I, the great biker and adventurer, with very mixed feelings'm geholpert through the area to arrive at this pass height.

From then on, the road is really good again and hey presto the last few kilometers down the mountain, everything is wonderful again.

Ich reite in Nong Khiao ein, ein wunderschoenes Oertchen in einem Talkessel in dem sich 2 Fluesse treffen. Fantastisch von Bergen umringt, mit einigen netten Gasthaeusern und Restaurants.

Aaahhhhh, ein kaltes Bier Lao und alles ist perfekt.

Erster Blick auf Nong Khiao

Ausser den vielen km, dem teuren Benzin, den Tigern und den furchterregenden Goldgraebern hatte ich heute auch noch meinen gefaehrlichsten Teil meiner Reise (so hoffe ich wenigstens) hinter mich gebracht.

Gleich nach der Abzweigung in Muang Kham, geht es ueber einen kleinen, 5 meter hohen Huegel, dahinter steht so ein Wasserbueffel mitten auf der Strasse.

Abzweigung in Muang Kham und Auffahrt zum Wasserbueffel-Huegel

Mit quietschenden Reifen, komme ich so 30 cm vor ihm zu stehen. Er sieht mich noch eine Weile doof an bevor er sich vom Acker (Strasse) macht.

Und so ging es den ganzen Tag weiter. Da ich mich nicht an die Ortsnamen erinnern kann habe ich die Doerfer desshalb nach den Tierarten benannt die mir vors Moped gelatscht sind und an denen ich es jedesmal gerade um Haaresbreite geschafft habe, vorbei zu kommen und damit ihr und mein Leben zu retten.

Da war dann das Dorf der 3 kleinen Schweinchen, das Kalb-Dorf, das Hund-Dorf welches 20 meter weiter in das Enten-Dorf umbnannt wird, dann kam das 2 Huehner und ein Gockel Dorf, das grosse Schwein-und Ziegen-Dorf und zum guten Abschluss dann noch das Depp-Dorf.

Im Depp-Dorf waren aus irgendeinem Grund noch mehr Leute am Strassenrand wie sonst normal, eigentlich muessen es alle gewesen sein die da gewohnt haben koennen.

Alle Winken und jubeln, und ich …linke Hand stolz erhoben… begruesse sie alle freundlich. Da springt ploetzlich Depp auf die Fahrbahn und gibt mir einen Handschlag…..Mir hat es fast die Schulter ausgekegelt und beinahe waere ich vom Moped gepurzelt. Ich war zwar zum Glueck recht langsam unterwegs, aber 30 km/h reichen, wenn mann sich nur mit einer Hand am Lenker festhaelt und ploetzlich und ueberraschender Weise von Depp so herzlich begruesst wird.

Naja, ich hab mich durchgeschaukelt und wie es Depp geht weiss ich nicht, hab nicht zurueck geschaut. Aber ich nehme mal an: “wir haben heute beide was gelernt!”

Tag 14

Ca 270 km Nong Khiao – nicht nach Uudom Xai – Luang Prabang

(6 km Moutainbike als Fruehsport nicht eingerechnet)

6.00 frueh Tagwache. Bevor ich losfahre moechte ich mir noch die Pathok Hoehle ansehen. Also raus aus dem Bett, rein in die Kletterstiefel und raus an die Strasse. Der Plan war, wie immer, nicht vorhanden. Irgendein Moped Fritze wird mich schon mitnehmen, fuer ein paar Geldscheine bin ich ja noch ueberall hingekommen.

Da stehe ich nun ratlos am Strassenrand und keiner nimmt mich mit! Die Harley will ich nicht starten, ich habe mehr als genug Dreck km hinter mir und ich weiss nicht wie weit die Hoehle von der Hauptstrasse entfernt ist.

Die Kneipe gegenueber wird gerade geoffnet und fuers Fruehstueck vorbereitet. Da nehme ich erst mal eine Pepsi und sammle ein paar infos.

The cave is about 3 km from the way back again, and not far from the main road. Well, I think, is 3 km + 3 km run I yes, I'm sure good. Here we go. On the next corner of the house is a sign ... Mountain bikes to rent ... well, who says since. I take my bike in most reception, the brakes, the landlord has negatively the required 20,000, - (USD 2.50) in hand and already I'm on cycling. Funny how the streets suddenly rise much steeper than I remembered. Thank God, the mountain was on my right to look really great, with the morning clouds that rose slowly from the slopes, he looked somehow as if the whole forest would burn and smoke rising everywhere. Amazing sight. Since I had a reason every 50 meters or so stop and have a photo (of the same mountain) to make (and to catch his breath.) So many photos like this morning I think I've still not on my whole trip to her made, and somehow all look the same!?

As smoke rises in the morning mist from the mountains

Right and 20 meters is more then concluded bike park, entrance fee and we continue to walk a few hundred meters through the rice fields, and then I stand in front of the caves entrance. A steep wooden staircase / ladder leads about 15 m in height can be up to the man in the mountain clean. Since splashing around in the war has apparently verbunkert the entire government and the Military Command of the region.

Bike no longer Sometime it is also the best mountain

Walk to the cave Thaam Pthok

Up there in the pure mountain HERE

The cave itself is quite interesting to see (in the photos is all unfortunately only in black!) And the view from the entrance, get out on the rice fields to the road and the river which runs through is quite nice. The short trip was worth it anyway. Back to the village, make bike again.

Der Verleiher war ganz entsetzt als er mich schon wieder sah. Er dachte es sei was mit dem Fahrrad nicht in Ordnung, da ich es so schnell wieder zurueck gebracht hatte. Sofort wollte er mir ein Anderes andrehen, aber keuchend versuchte ich ihm zu vermitteln, dass das Fahrrad schon ok war, ich aber nicht und dass ich fuer heute genug geradelt sei, was er zwar nicht verstanden hat, aber eben, er hatte ja sein Geld schon.

Moped satteln, mich Verabschieden und los gehts in Richtung Luang Prabang.

Erst will ich noch einen kleinen Abstecher machen und Uudom Xai anschauen. In Pakmong rechts abbiegen und noch einmal hoch in die Berge, ca 85 km nach Nord Westen, dass sollte dann der noerdlichste Punkt meiner Reise werden. Aber da wird nix draus. Je weiter ich komme um so schlechter wird die Strasse. Starke Regenfaelle in den letzten paar Tagen haben ganze Teile der Strasse unterspuelt und im Fluss versenkt. Alle paar km war ein Erdrutsch quer ueber die Strasse. Ich mache ein paar dieser Wasserloecher und Schlammschlachten mit. Irgendwann sehe ich dann vor mir die schwarzen Regenwolken und auf der Strasse wieder so ein Schlammloch.

Der einzige Weg nach und von Oudom Xai und mehr Regenwolken am Himmel

So wichtig kann Oudom Xai gar nicht sein

Wenn ich mir Vorstelle, dass die einzige andere Strasse aus Oudom Xai raus, nach China fuehrt und wenn ich mir weiter Vorstelle dass bei einem weiteren Regenguss die Strasse zurueck dann ganz weg ist, dann ist der Entschluss recht schnell gefasst: So wichtig is Oudom Xai nicht. Kehrt Marsch und die selbe Schlammschlacht wieder bergrunter. Die ca 40 km rauf und dann wieder runter haben mich den ganzen Vormittag gekostet, es ist 1.00 Uhr als ich wieder in Pakmong ankomme.

Von da an geht es wieder auf der N#13 nun endgueltig nach Luang Prabang.

Ca 110 km, die Strasse von altbekannter Qualitaet und mit strahlendem Gesicht und nach vorne gestreckten Beinen geht es recht flott dahin. Super, endlich wieder einmal Gasgeben. Ein bisschen ueber eine Stunde spaeter bin ich in Luang Prabang.

Eine wunderschoene Stadt und fuer Asiatische Verhaeltnisse sehr sauber. Ueberall Tempel (WATs) und Pagoden. Schoen restaurierte Kolonialzeit Haeser sind im ganzen alten Stadtkern in Gasthaeuser und Pensionen umgebaut. Ich habe kein Problem ein kleines nettes Gasthaus zu finden (mit ueberdachtem Parkplatz fuers Moped). Ich steige im Suam Keo Guesthouse ab. Wunderschoenes Holzhaeuschen, nette, sehr saubere Zimmer, heisse Dusche, Fan, gutes Bett…alles was ich brauche. USD 10.—

Gepflegte, saubere Strassen im Zentrum der Altstadt, Luang Prabang

Eingecheckt und zufrieden mit dem Ergebnis, kuemmere ich mich erst mal wieder um mein Motorrad. Da ich in den Bergen recht langsam unterwegs war habe ich natuerlich fuer die gemachten km die doppelte Zeit gebraucht und desshalb denke ich dass der Oelwechsel nach ca 1200 km kein Schaden sein kann, und war er auch nicht.

Das Oel war schon ziehmlich dunkel. Also gerade zur rechten Zeit. Auch noch waschen lassen und dann mit Ehrenrunde durch die Stadt und dann ab auf den Parkplatz. Harley hat fuer die naechsten 36 Stunden Ferien. Morgen solls zu Fuss los gehen, durch die Stadt der 1000 Tempel, das werde ich per pedes durchdruecken.

Gleich die Strasse runter finde ich ein nettes Garten Restaurant, das Antique House Restaurant und da wird das billigste Bier in ganz Laos verkauft. 7.500 Kip ( unter 10.000 oder mindestens 8.000 gibt es das normalerweise nicht) Da habe ich viel Geld gespart.

Zum Abendessen habe ich mir am Strassenrand von einer netten, alten, kugelrunden Lao Frau ihre Sandwiches andrehen lassen. Ein normales gutes Laotisches Essen im Restaurant kostet so um die 25.000, mein Sandwich kostet 15.000 und ich brauchte 2 um satt zu werden, gut das ich vorher beim Bier gespart hatte.

Und dann die ganze Nacht Durchfall. Ich bin mir sicher, dass die gute Frau ihre eigenen Sandwich noch nie gegessen hat. Mit so einem Durchfall haette sie nie so kugelrund werden koennen.

Tag 15

0 km (aber mindestens 10 gelatscht) Die Wats, Tempel und Pagoden sind wirklich wunderschoen, aber eben sehr viele davon. Irgendwann sehen sie dann alle irgendwie aehnlich aus. Nach dem ich den ganzen Vormittag herumgeklettert bin und alles fotografiert hatte was ich brauche um zu beweisen, das ich hier war, gebe ich mich geschlagen und ueblerlasse die Kloester wieder den Moenchen, wovon es in Luang Prabang ja auch mehr als genug gibt.

The highest point in Luang Prabang

Impressive school of Buddhism statues standing around everywhere

On my way through the city I also bought some cuddly little girls compulsory Backpacker bracelets. Die Dinger sind zwar nichts wert, kosten dafuer aber um so mehr. So eine geflochtene Plastikschnur kostet gleich mal USD 3.75, nicht schlecht der Specht, dafuer waren die kleinen Maedels alle sooo suess.

Jetzt habe ich ein Armband fuer: viel Glueck, eines fuer: Geld fuer die Schule, eines fuer: Geld fuer die Familie und noch eines fuer: viel Glueck und damit ich wieder hier her zurueck komme. Das naechste fuer: Geld fuer die Schule habe ich dann nicht mehr gekauft, da ich den Spruch ja schon kannte.

Trotzdem, wie gesagt, Luang Prabang ist wirklich die schoenste Stadt die ich bisher in Asien gesehen habe. Wirklich sehenswert.

Da ich meine Toiletten-nacht nicht unbedingt wiederholen wollte, entschied ich mich fuer ein Abendessen in einem der am teuersten aussehenden Restaurants. Im Bakery & Pizza House Luang Prabang, direkt an der Hauptmeile. Die Pizza fuer 70.000 Kip war steinhart und ausser dem wabbligen Teil in der Mitte, eigentlich nicht ohne spezial Werkzeug essbar. (Viel Erfolg im Bakery & Pizza House Luang Prabang…und als Geschaeftsidee fuer Luang Prabang Liebhaber: Zahnarzt praxis nebenan, duerfte gut laufen!) Das Bier kostet genau doppelt soviel wie in “meiner Stammkneipe” um die Ecke von meinem Gasthaus. Da bin ich dann auch gleich hin und habe versucht den Bier-Durchschnittspreis so gut wie moeglich zu senken.

Tag 16

230 km Luang Prabang nach Vang Vieng

Um 4.00 wurde ich von massiven Regenstuermen aufgeweckt. Ich bin nicht ganz sicher ob es heute weiter geht. Also Musik so laut aufdrehen, damit ich und warscheinlich alle restlichen Gaeste im Hotel, den Regen nicht mehr hoeren und umdrehen, weiterschlafen.

9.00 immer noch starker Regen. Berichten zufolge gab es schwerste Berg-Rutsche auf der Strecke zwischen Vientiane und Luang Prabang. Touristen, die fix und fertig eintrudeln erzahlen Horror Geschichten von 23 Stunden Busfahrt/Warten/Fahrt. Verzweifelten Aussagen nach zu schliessen ist anscheinend die gesamte Strecke von hier bis Vang Vieng zugeschuettet! Um 10.00 hoert es zwar auf zu regnen aber neue und staerkere Regenfaelle werden vorrausgesagt, so sagt zumindest mein Wirt, der gerne moechte dass ich noch ein paar Tage bleibe.

Mit einigen Zweifeln im Bauch ueber die Weisheit meines Entschlusses, mache ich mich trotzdem ans Koffer packen und Moped satteln.

Um 11.00 verabschiede ich mich von den gastfreundlichen Leuten im Suan Keo Guesthouse und mache mich trotz aller Warnungen auf den Weg. Die Option, bald wieder zurueck zu sein, lasse ich mir allerdings offen. Andererseits ist es ja recht einfach sich auszurechnen, dass wenn es nochmal und staerker regnet, dann geht morgen gar nix mehr und ich sitze wirklich fuer einige Zeit hier fest.

Also, ab gehts, erst so ca 150 km auf der N#13, wieder ueber die Berge nach Phou Khoun.

There is first ein grosser Markt, den ich mir ansehen will und 2. die Abzweigung, bei der ich beim herweg rechts abgebogen bin um nach Ponh Savanh zu kommen. An dieser Kreuzung schliesst sich also dann der Kreis und von da an geht es auf bekannten Strassen wieder den Weg zurueck nach Vang Vieng.

Ich habe ja in meinen frueheren Berichten mehr als genug ueber die Strassen, deren Beschaffenheit, die tausenden von gigantischen Kurven, die Bergdoerfer, Kinder usw geschwaermt. Trotzdem hatten es die ersten 120 km von Luang Prabang nach Phou Khoun noch einmal so richtig in sich. Alles bisher Dagewesene wurde noch einmal uebertroffen. Einfach unbeschreiblich.

So 30 km bevor ich die bekannte Abzweigung erreiche geht es dann los. Da waren wirklich massive Erdrutsche ueber die ganze Strasse abgegangen. Da muss der halbe Berg runtergekommen sein. Ich kann mir vorstellen, dass hier die Fahrt letzte nacht, bei Dunkelheit und starkem Regen, die reinste Hoelle gewesen sein muss.

Geraeumt aber immer noch ziehmlich rutschig

Trotzdem, oder gerade desshalb, Hut ab vor den Laotischen Organisatoren. Bagger, Raupen, Schneepfluege und was sonst noch alles in vollem Einsatz und die Strasse ist komplett freigeschaufelt. Was allerdings nicht bedeutet dass nicht noch mehr als Genug Schlamm den Berg und die Strasse herunterlaeuft um die ganze Sache so rutschig und schmierig wie moeglich zu machen. Ein leichter aber extreme nerviger Nieselregen setzt ein und macht alles noch schlimmer. Autos stecken ueberall fest und beladene Trucks rutschen mit blockierten Raedern rueckwaerts die Strasse wieder runter. Ich sehe zu wie ein Tank Lastwagen rueckwaerts geradewegs in den Strassengraben rutscht. Fuer Autos ist da kein Durchkommen moeglich, nicht in den naechsten Stunden, jedenfalls.

Da werde ich gleich, stolz erhobenen Hauptes, vorbeiduesen!

Mit dem Moped, naja. Beide Stiefel als Stuetzraeder benutzend, bis zu den Knoecheln im Schlamm steckend, sehe ich warscheinlich eher aus wie so ein Schi-Bob-Fahrer, oder so, aber es geht, zwar langsam aber stetig, bergauf.

Ein paar Rutschpartien waren schon faellig aber ein Umfallen konnte bis zum Schluss verhindert werden. So machte ich meinen Weg, stolz grinsend und mit hoch erhobenem Kopf, an allen wartenden Autos, Bussen und aufgeregten Touristen, Schweinen, Huehnern, Ziegen etc. vorbei, durch all die miesen Schlamm loecher hoch und wieder runter den Berg. Ca 50 km, wovon mindestens die Haelfte eine fuerchterliche Rutschpartie war.

Der hats dann nicht geschafft, das gibt dem Wort “Truck Stop” doch auch gleich eine neue Bedeutung

Am Markt in Phou Khoun bin ich ca 3 Stunden spaeter vorbeigerutscht.

Aber irgendwann war auch das vorbei, der ewige, nervende Nieselregen hoert auf, die Wolken lichten sich und Sonnenstrahlen kommen durch.

The last 50 km down the hill to Vang Vieng is a dream again, and soon the whole mud-massel forgotten. At first, I'm still a bit wobbly on his feet. The muddy soles of the feet constantly slipping screens and the wheels and fenders are completely filled with clay and mud. A couple of slippery curves are later then the tires at least clean-ish and I am now so fast that the dirt so slowly dissolved and (mostly over my head, everything else in my face) is thrown away in a high arc. Thus I have a to-Self-cleaning moped, that is good!

Unbelievable training and Views

With blue skies and sunshine, it then goes down through the beautiful valley of the mountain and cheerful in front of the helmet-me-out-whistling, back towards Vang Vieng. The children waved no more in my sight, some are hiding behind their parents, others run behind the house or teal behind / under wood pile!? Although it took me almost 6 hours for the 230 km, I'm glad (and proud) that I am now set out. And soon I was sitting back in the Aussie bar in Vang Vieng and I've only handle again the dust / mud washed out of the throat. A few beers later and still in the dirty twine and shoe then I went to my old guest house to ask for a room. After I had a lot of mud from my face I was also recognized and welcomed friendly.

Madness, what a ride back to Vang Vieng!

Day 17

So far, 0 km, cozy breakfast to write this report and any further plans. Before tomorrow nothing happens more magnificent. In my more than wet genugen glissade, which I enjoyed yesterday, I do not even out with the rubber ring to once again be wet and dirty. So I'm sure ziehmlich one of the first tourists who visited twice in Vang Vieng and not gone through the tubing and thus have not acquired a right to wear the "Tubing T-Shirt".

Since I am the total outsider, but happy and alive.

The 4th Part of my report will follow soon .... so if someone is too boring, just do not look ........

Greetings from Vang Vieng,

Cheers, and keep the rubber side down!

Werner, your Lone Brother in Laos