Lone Brothers MC

Harley Tour - Laos - 20 101 - Part 4

Day 18

About 450km to Vang Vieng Thakhek

This has sounded like a cozy day. 450 km look like much, but I knew the roads and their condition. Therefore should be to create loosely in 6 hours.

Well rested, until about 9:00 in the morning. pass from Steve and his gang and let off only pass towards Vientiane, the city then left (lie or in this case the right), 12 km from the city entrance, there is a bypass road to me directly to the S 13 and then take you to Thakhek.

Aussie Steve and his gang

Easy. So far so good!

80 km is more to me then like the light from the scooter. A screw and the second was from a very, very loose. Well, raise the middle of Laos Sun Imperialist inch thread screws that'll be fun.

Now I must be purely to Vientiane, which is a detour but I had seen during my previous visit a Land Rover business, so there is still hope. So about 90 km as slowly as possible and unnecessary jolt avoiding to Vientiane. Although I have a Land Rover representation seen, but knew the best will not where. Could really only be so somewhere around the Syrian guest house around 2:00, I was otherwise never really been far away.

After an hour of aimless wandering in the city I've finally found it then and they could not help me of course. But she knew of a small motorcycle shop in the vicinity and had my way.

There is a small Werkstaette and such a nice Laotian, who speaks not a word of English, but the whole is viewed and silently in front of my scooter.

The broken screw is still in the thread and must be rausoperiert first. Moped dismantle and remove the Gabelbruecke, weld a little bit of the old screw and loosely rausdrehen, everything goes a flash. Then again screwing everything together, no problem, he has done ratzfatz.

Then we tried to screw the light head again, but since the problem began. He had screws but mm thread, and the fit just is not exist.

But also because he knows the Council, sits on his scooter and disappeared.

Not 5 minutes later he is back and has two old rusty screws it .... Fit, I liked him would be dropped by the neck.

So everything and assemble them ready. Super and in the middle of Laos. And pricing:

Legendary USD 5 - (or 40,000 kip). Since I did not know there that it pulled the plug on the steering head has stripped and gave me the thread in the Gabelbruecke broken, I give him 50,000 and am absolutely happy.

Now it's 3:15 and I'm sitting in Vientiane, a city which I have absolutely no desire.

Again, knowing better, I sit down on the scooter and duese rid Thakhek direction.

What a shit idea, which was now again. But what the hell, I survived habs.

Namely 6:30 Better get dark and I'm still 100 km from Thakhek.

Now I know why and was on Lao roads during the day so little traffic. All the trucks, large buses, in fact all have to carry the point which allowed only 7:00 in the evening on the road, and they are then all. And they all seem to have agreed to meet me and go and hide myself, right in the eye. I am moving parts or only have a 5 km / h and in the absolute flying blind. 50 km further then thank God it starts to rain, and even the dung is perfect. Raindrops on my glasses and truck lights distort the whole indefinable look in something. I feel my walking pace along the roadside. Suddenly I was no longer by the oncoming truck geblended, it is as would be suddenly be light. Now fully in the brakes and stop. Since running, no ½ meters before me, a black cow across the road. I would have never seen the cattle when they are not short term, the lights of the truck would have obscured. Wow, that was close. What the hell do I have to continue, since there nothing more the last 50 km to Thakhek, no village and no inn.

I make it but then at some point, without bigger problems, but that I just got so much time left early, which I bitterly regret.

Thakhek itself is not really worth mentioning. Probably the dirtiest town I have seen Laos and for some reason the most expensive. Here, everything costs twice as much as anywhere else in Laos. It somehow seems such a good starting point for many tourists to its attractions. Jungle trekking, kayaking, climbing, caves, waterfalls tours, elephants, etc .... Here is a lot to offer, and are therefore ziehmlich few tourists in town and everyone will be exempted.

Day 19

50 km in, around, around and through Thakhek.

I like it here, although not particularly but it is raining all morning and I do not really continue in this weather. What the hell, the Guest House that I had found the Thakhek Travel Lodge, but also quite expensive for what they offer (in proportion to the other squares where I was before) but otherwise really bearable. Well, as I sit down then, and am not so eigentlch gleucklich about it. Since I've now finally time for me to take care of my hobby. I collect license plates and, if possible, then I'm looking for one in every country where I am. Since Thakhek actually like a big waste heap ausssieht the possibility exists that even one or two broken car in the entire scrap it is. Here we go, again I moped and clatter from all the side streets in the village and find so an old junkyard where they cut up old cars. The numbers are all off and I will just keep going to the search because of a plumber called me back and points to an old zerdeppertes scooter, there's a number to it. Can stand on today's date, I can hardly believe. An ancient part, totally kaput and apparently is that thing was years in the dirt and then back on it is 03-08-10! Incredibly, today is the third Aug, 2010, that I must have. As will be discussed seriously, and for USD 2.75 I am going up to me then this indicator. Abgeflext and wonderful. The fellow will also be about equal to pounce my Harley and runterflexen my number. He seems to be of the opinion that I wanted to change the numbers. I defend my moped and manage to make it in the condition it is in the. I put one of the old number and leave a few Laotians helpless ... .... Touri what this was about to go???

What a find! The date fits.

Day 20

Approximately 500 km of Thakhek Kong to Iceland (4000 islands) so about 30 km before the border to Cambodia.

Comfortable Sleeping is painted, 6.30 and out again moped. The S 13 along the detour over Saravanh I leave out and I'll make it easy for about 7 hours to the places where Bootanlege take the "ferry" on the main island (Kong Iceland) of the 4,000 islands in the Mekong. So I grab my scooter now but to put together such a boat and entrust myself to the waters of the Mekong.

Not very trustworthy, but it floats.

That one in the bow of a boat, vegetables and herbs growing from the floor Increases my confidence in the whole craft not really. But since we already put it is now too late to change my mind at once.

Herb garden on board!

Kong is really quite nice, but not really spectacular. I think as man would now continue on the smaller islands that are there in heaps in the Mekong downstream spread everywhere. Since apparently have to be anywhere inns and bars at all reasonably accessible islands. Backpackers I meet love the idyllic beauty and the small islands. The parties seem to be there every night and celebrate the relaxed island life have done to them.

Since I hinkann nothing with the scooter, I'll find out on this trip but unfortunately, not himself. Since the main island surrounded by an asphalt road is I do not like me on a reconnaissance trip. Egg island is bigger than I thought, but about 20 minutes in so I am I'm around the whole island. Very nice landscape with rice fields and small fields, all a little mini me, it almost get the impression even the water buffalo on the island smaller than on the mainland.

A few beers on the Mekong bank, and nice chat with fellow travelers make a peaceful and pleasant evening.

Day 21

Km - no map (but ultimately 800 km from Iceland Kong to Siem Reap)

If I come quickly over the border, then I am going to Phnom Penh, which would then be about 650 km, at the border when I need a long time, then I'm behind my plan, in Cambodia, I know my way, yes.

5:30 reveille, I will be first on the border before any tourist buses arrive.

On the ferry, this time I catch a big ferry, there are three boats nailed together and I am assured that there draufgehen cars! Who wants to bring a car on this island?? Well, I was also with the Harley there, perhaps there really such ... more Rueber shore, about 40 km to the border.

Limit: The Zoellner all still half asleep and were glad to get rid of me as they were, so no problem, I'm through and it's grad time 7.30.

Weather great and I'm in high spirits. In Cambodia, but is more traffic than in Laos but I'm progressing well. Stung Treng, Kratie, Kompong Cham and on to Memot, about the great Mekong bridge and on it goes.

The biking is so much fun that I shall conclude not to go home, but make one more trip to Siem Reap. Although I was a couple of times was in Angkor, but my Harley before. So now everything fits beautifully and the schedule is changed. I risk a glance at my rear, which is quite nice down. But I do not let this ruin my mood and there you go ... ...

Right and towards Kompong Tom, and on to Siem Reap. I reach about SR Sun at 5.00 clock in the afternoon, they were now almost 12 hours travel time, with border, fill up and smoke breaks for about 800km. Not bad, but I'm done.

Too tired to really eat much and drink, I fall into bed soon.

I live in the Sam Sun Guest House on Wat Bo Street. A / C room available for USD 12th - with a free fan eighth -. Very nice Khmer family, absolute clean room, refrigerator, TV, hot shower, everything your heart desires.

Day 22

Km not much, but I'm looking for a rear tire, I ride trust me with the old not 20 km more to think not because I do so on the way to Phnom Penh.

Now is about time!

I clatter Werkstaetten all I know, do not know, think and I will sent there now and can not find a tire. In a Werkestaette because it is a nice Maedel the right speaks good English and she is also very proud that she has the right tire for me. 110/80/16, a bit narrow, but when it is ... nothing else would fit and I'm at it to buy the tires. Nevertheless, I would like to see in me first. The plastic is processed and there is still a wonderful motocross tires with 3-cm-high tunnel to light, well that would be what has become. Although I know that if nothing else, I think I'll come back and forth here assemblies, these tires. Better than my age, and in PP, I can then sell it to a buddy of Dirtbikes has, or exchange them for a small extra charge for a street tire, so the situation is shitty, but not completely hopeless.

I drive on "Molly Malone by" Guest House and see Thierry, an old friend already seated at morning beer, ran right, pure, and am glad that this one is already awake. Thierry himself drives a Transalp, he does so well now and a tire, maybe he knows something. He sees little hope for me verweisst me but to his friend Pepe from the Café Indochine, which in turn refers me to his French friends who apparently do a great Werkstaette and sell motorcycles. A glimmer of hope on the horizon. He describes the way and get going. The main road out # 6, the airport, Total gas station to the left, just beyond the next right ... ....'s not because I am then rumgekurvt long enough in the dirt. It is the last just before the Total petrol station, this is the right ... .. Have I then found out, too.

Since so sit a group of young French, who have standing around Sun about 20-30 machines of all varieties and sizes, I'm speechless. All 1300 Honda, 900 Triumph, Kawas, etc. Everything is what it all with French and numbers on it.

Well, long story short. The boys knew where they find a tire for me. You saw that dripped my carburetor and have replaced the broken blade. Since a blade adapted from an old quad bike in my Harley carburetor, I'm speechless, by the way they have to down the tank, never seen that I am the screw is omitted from the steering head. ... When she wanted to kick it a new one (they had to inch thread screws stock ) they have determined that my buddy in Vientiane had turned the old thread in the Gabelbruecke.

Well, because they could not do much about it, but put through a thin screw and secure with nut. Tapping a new and decent judge must I be comfortable in PP or Sihanouk Ville, if I have time. Then they still mending my old helmet, since the belt was riveted again. While I have my scooter with them made them gave me an unsolicited Honda CB 750, so I'm driving around in the meantime, what for. The guys were great class, inspired in the work, friendly and absolutely helpful.

And has cost me the whole fun, incl tires, slat, screws, rivets, work, etc. All Leihmoped USD 90th -. What I had not expected, more than fair and equitable. That's why I'm here a little advertising for the boys.

So, if anyone has a moped problem once in Siem Reap, or want to buy a motorcycle:

Le Garage, Siem Reap

Bertrand: tel 017 581 620

sebglassmanprod@live.fr

nicoglassmanprod@live.fr

bhuguenin@free.fr

... These are really nice guys and it also looks as if they know what they do.

Day 23

40 km to Siem Reap

Just relax one more day before going back. The weather is fantastic.

Also I trust my quad fin not quite go and therefore, here are a few km across the area to see if it holds all or not. No problem, the thing seems to work, also holds the handlebars, and I'm happy with my new tires, the old one was really in the end. Since I was last down to the mm. No more 50 km and the thing would be probably burst.

The area around Siem Reap is fantastic, the temple is a madness, as always, and I enjoy the little tour.

One of the temples in Siem Reap, Angkor Wat - for all know that's not yet.

As I have reported so tours in former reports already about motorcycle travel to Siem Reap and already a lot of photos AngkorWat have put into the net, I will not miss about it longer. Just great, believe me, and whoever wants to know more info needed or old looking for my reports: wernermennel@ymail.com

Day 24

Approximately 400 km Siem Reap - Phnom Penh

At the beginning of my report I have written: the roads in Cambodia are good and I come quickly forward. Well, after I got used the great roads of Laos, the way for me to come here more like mending carpets, no comparison with the quality in Laos. What the hell, I was there earlier also satisfied.

Finally, again really good dinner is the Urs in the "William Tell". Since I spoil myself again with really good rarity European food.

Day 25

Approximately 240 km Phnom Penh - Sihanouk Ville

Well, here again are the great reflection: rain suit or dress shelter and drink beer until the rain is over.

Otherwise, nothing more magnificent on this track.

Finally back in Sihanouk Ville. After now approximately 6050 km I've driven in Leo in Bavaria, of course deserves a double lentil soup (with sausage). The old Bayer operates as a small bar and serves really good food. This lentil soup I looked forward the last 100 km or so.

Then it's course back in the Lone Brothers bar, our clubhouse, where my journey is finally officially to an end. Since there is cold beer, good music and a lot to tell.

Back home

So all in all:

6042 km driven in 25 days

No accident (no tiger bites or so)

2x almost died

Oil changed 3 times (5x gear oil) = about 11 liters

42x (tanked about 275 liters of fuel) yep Sun about 4-4 ½ liter at 100km, is already, right?

2 rear tires used (but still on the same front tire, which will become due soon

3x become wet (but really only once dirty, Namely from the top end!)

3x Gluehbirne replaced the tail light (probably held back too much??)

8x Moped be washed ()

3 days with 0 km - most of the day were the 800 km to Siem Reap from Iceland Kong

Beer drinking: I also do a few, how many know I have not.

And now I'm back.

Thanks and greetings to all who have persevered this far and have read my entire report.

Cheers, and keep the down rubberside

Werner, your Lone Brother, back in Cambodia

Harley Tour - Laos - 2010

Part 3

Day 12 - about 120 km around Phon Savanh

Frueh out, free breakfast in the hotel it is 6:00 to 8:30, that's ziehmlich early for me.

Then there you go, exploring the area. At first I chug along the old road in the direction of Xiang Khouang, which was the capital of the former Province, about 42 km from Phon Savanh. The road is very good, and winds its way along a small river through a beautiful mountain valley Chen. Past the entrance to the Plain of Jars Site 1, today I want to see the other bodies, Site 2,3 & 4th

A few kilometers further, then the sign [o J Plain site 2 & 3, 12 km]. So right and a eintlang Holperstrasse. Since I have ziehmlich scared me in this area a flat ride, I focus mainly to the large, sharp stones to avoid, therefore, I actually get to the area with not very much. At one point I pass a horse paddock and I wish me that I could exchange it for one my scooter.

Despite poor road you continue, my goal before the eyes. After about 10 km, turn left off and the road is even worse. Wet clay and ziehmlich slippery. But I let myself be put off of it until I come then to the last hill. 250 meters from the finish, I give then definitively. What is too much is too much! Perhaps it would be gone uphill, but then they slide back down again, no, under any circumstances. So it went back empty-handed on the road.

250 meters from the finish, but enough!

So a site no problem, but everything else is only 4 × 4 or a good dirt bike!

Continue to Khoung Xiang, through a fantastic little valley, between freshly planted rice fields. Wonderful colors and it's a great trip.

The city itself is surrounded mountains and hills, the market is the center of the action. A few tourists to fight over the few attractions the village has to offer, the ancient Stupa, one ziehmlich battered Budha statue and a little bit outside of the village is still such an old rusty Russians - around tanks.

Since just the same with me, a bus arrived and the Japanese push just to see who can mostly take pictures of the few things to look for, I rise not at all on my moped, but make the same turn and make me , lazy as I am, back on the way back.

Just a cozy ride through the mountain valley, since otherwise even today nirgens hinmuss, please let me time Tucker and I left through the small villages and wave to all children whether they want it or not.

Ride through the valley to Xiang Khoung

On the evening in the hotel I met two Irishmen and Mr Yee, their leader the go with Dirtbikes. They come from the direction in which I want and there reflects valuable information about road quality and distance distribution (from gas station to gas station).

Whether you are probably smarter than me?

But since I'm a tank full of almost 250 km, because I'm not very many worries. And according to her information to the streets will be great and not be a problem for me and my scooter. However, it is always amazing as roads that are for a motocross rider very well be a Harley rider's hair stand on end. Well, from experience, man / woman will finally wise!

Day 13

The longest routes section, about 550 km around the entire plateau, and about four passports of Ponh Savanh - Muang Kham - Nam nine-Viang Thong - Viang finally connecting to Nong Kham Khiao.

The usual, I do not want to bore you, the first nice 70 or so km to Muang Kham, cozy down, advance nice curves, good road, fifth gear legs. Then, curvy, so I've never seen downhill almost 400 km on the left, right, uphill, a Wahrsinn, which for a ride. Super street with little traffic. Some 3-4 km did not turn, I'm from the second Gang did not get out. ... Left, right, left, right ... .. I call Mopedfahren, as they used when Schiefahren through the slalom poles ... ... indescribable.

Motorcycle Slalom!

Somewhere between then there was once a half hour rain. It's strange how quickly becomes a super-curve road in a divorce. ... Slippery, winding stream and how quickly a dream untouched landscape to the God-forsaken region, if it pisses so right and man far and wide alone is ... ... ... Well , belongs to the doubt whether it was really a good idea to drive off in the rainy season belong, just for bikers everyday.

But no sooner hears the rain, the world is right again and I am sure again that it was a good idea!

And then came the kick in the butt when I catch is this Mr. Yee, who have tells me about a good road, then it sour. ... Somewhere between Viang Thong Kham Viang and then listens on the asphalt and on it goes about 60 km over a bumpy. Mr. Yee ( yeeluanglasa@hotmail.com ), you'll still hear something from me to get some. Ceaselessly I wonder if I'm lost their way from the right, but everyone I ask tells me that I am correct in direction Luang Prabang. However, no two people in this Geged over the distance in agreement. I get anything between 100 km and 500 km and 3 days!? to hear.

Well, at least in the right direction and I jolt on through the area.

Since then comes the sign on the roadside, which I suggesting that people here pride in the area are that there are wild tigers. The smoke breaks were fewer and shorter breaks Pinkel will understand how each.

"We are proud to have Tiger here"

Slowly it is late in the afternoon, I have no plan, where I am and to the small pumping station and Coke bottles of petrol service stations will be more expensive.

Meanwhile, I am of 9,000 Kip on 11 - and 12,000 Kip per liter, which are now 1 ½ USD for a liter sprit (1, - is about USD 8.200, - Kip).

In the mountains I pass beautiful mountain villages, but once I'm somewhere in the valley or near a river, as the population has very little inspire confidence. All the rivers and creeks are dug up there massive, I think there will be mined for gold and just see villages and the people from. What man knows it from the TV ... so gold mining based graphic design ... but not the romantic from Karl May, but the others who have found nothing, and therefore are sour.

Breathtaking views

After hours of rocking, I'll be back to pass on such a height.

.... As a French girl stands with her bike, micht hauts almost from the stool ...

But she tells me quite cheerful, that it comes from the other side, from Nong Khiao, about 25 km further down, the road was good and she has made only very loosely on a little trip. No reason, therefore, not to tell her that I, the great biker and adventurer with mixed feelings'm geholpert through the area to arrive at this pass height.

From then on, the road is really good again and hey presto the last few km down the hill, everything is wonderful again.

I ride one in Nong Khiao, a wonderful little place nice meet in a valley where two rivers. Fantastic surrounded by mountains, with some nice restaurants and guesthouses.

Aaahhhhh, a cold beer Lao, and everything is perfect.

First look at Nong Khiao

Besides the many km, the expensive gasoline, the Tigers and the fearsome miners today I had brought even my most dangerous part of my journey (I hope at least) behind me.

Immediately after the fork in Muang Kham, it's about a small, five meter high hill, behind such a water buffalo is in the middle of the road.

Junction in Muang Kham and driveway to the water buffalo hills

With screeching tires, I feel so 30 cm in front of him. He still sees me stupid for a while before he joined from the field (street) makes.

And so it went throughout the day. Since I can not remember the names I named the villages, therefore the species that are gelatscht front of my scooter and I have always just made it by a hair to come by, and thus to save her and my life.

Since then, the village was the three little pigs, the calf-village, the dog-village which is 20 meters further umbnannt in the duck village, then came the two hens and a rooster village, the big pig and goat-village and to a good degree then the Depp-village.

In Depp village were for some reason even more people on the roadside as otherwise normal, actually it must have been all the can since lived.

All waving and cheering, and I raised left hand ... ... proud to welcome you all kindly. Since Depp suddenly jumps on the track and gives me a handshake ... .. I have it almost ausgekegelt the shoulder, and I would be almost tumbled by moped. Although I was lucky to move very slowly, but many 30 km / h when the man with one hand on the handlebars to hold and sudden and surprising ways of Depp is greeted as warmly.

Well, I've also be broadcasted and how it is Depp I do not know, have not looked back. But I assume it: "We have both learned something today!"

Day 14

Approximately 270 km Nong Khiaw - not after uudom Xai - Luang Prabang

(6 km mountain bike as a morning exercise not included)

6:00 early reveille. Before I do go I want to watch me Pathok the cave. So get out of bed and into the climbing boots and get out on the street. The plan was, as always, does not exist. Any scooter Fritze will take me already for a couple of bills I'm gone anywhere yet.

Since I am now at a loss on the roadside and no one takes me! The Harley I will not start, I have more than enough mud km behind me and I know not how far the cave from the main road.

The pub is opposite opened and prepared just for breakfast. Because I take only once a Pepsi and collect some info.

The cave is about 3 km from the way back again, and not far from the main road. Well, I think, can I run 3 km + 3 km, yes, I'm sure good. Here we go. On the next corner of the house is a sign ... Mountain bikes for rent ... well who says. I take my bike in receiving test, the brakes, hit the landlord the required 20 000, - (USD 2.50) in hand and already I'm on cycling. Funny how the streets suddenly rise much steeper than I had remembered. Thank God, the mountain was to my right look really great, with the morning clouds that rose slowly from the slopes, he looked somehow as if the whole forest would burn and smoke rising everywhere. Fantastic sight. Since I had a reason to stop every 50 meters or so and even a photo (of the same mountain to make) (and again to catch his breath.) So many photos like this morning I think I've still not on my entire trip to her made, and somehow all look the same!?

As smoke from the morning mist rises from the mountains

Right and 20 meters is more then concludes bike park, pay admission, and we continue to walk a few hundred meters through the rice fields and then I get up in front of the caves entrance. A steep wooden staircase / ladder leads about 15 m in height can be up man in the mountain clean. Since splashing around in the war has apparently bunkered the entire Government and the Military Command of the region.

the best mountain bike Sometime it is also not continue with

Walk to the cave Thaam Pthok

Up there goes in the mountain

The cave itself is quite interesting to see (in the photos is all, unfortunately, only black!) And the view from the entrance, get out on the rice fields with the road and the river which runs through is quite nice. The short trip was worth it anyway. Back to the village, make a bike again.

The lender was quite shocked when he saw me again. He thought there was something wrong with the bike, I had it brought back so quickly. He immediately wanted me something else turn on, but panting I tried to convey that the bike was ok, but I do not and that I had for today cycled enough that he has not understood, but it is, he had his money already.

Moped saddle me goodbye and go in the direction of Luang Prabang.

First I want to make a little detour and look uudom Xai. In turn Pakmong right and again high in the mountains, about 85 km to the north west, should that be the northernmost point of my journey. But there is nothing out of it. The further I get the worse the road. Heavy rains in the last few days have undermined all parts of the road and sunk in the River. Every few km across was a landslide across the road. I do with a couple of these waterholes and mud-slinging. Sometime I see before me, the black rain clouds and on the road again so a mud hole.

The only way to and from Oudom Xai and more rain clouds in the sky

As important may not be Oudom Xai

When I imagine that out the only other road from Xai Oudom, leads to China and if I continue to imagine that back when another downpour, the road then all is gone, then the decision is taken fairly quickly: How important is Oudom Xai not. Returns to march, and the same mud back downhill. The approximately 40 km up and then down again cost me all morning, it is 1.00 clock when I arrive back in Pakmong.

From then on it's back on the N # 13 now definitively to Luang Prabang.

Approximately 110 km, the road of long-familiar quality and with a radiant face and the front legs straight, it goes pretty fast then. Super, finally, once again accelerating. A little over an hour later I'm in Luang Prabang.

A beautiful city and very clean for Asian standards. Everywhere Temple (WATS), and pagodas. Schoen restored colonial Haeser are converted into guest houses throughout the old city center and guest houses. I have no problem finding a nice little guest house (with covered parking for mopeds). I climb from the Kaew Suam Guest House. Wonderfull Holzhaeuschen, nice, very clean rooms, hot shower, fan, good bed ... everything I need. USD 10 -

Neat, clean streets in the center of Old Town, Luang Prabang

Checked and satisfied with the result, I take care of it for now for my motorcycle. As I move very slowly in the mountains, I was of course used for the declared km double the time and therefore I think that the oil change after about 1200 km can be no harm, and he was not.

The oil was ziehmlich dark. So just in time. Also wash still and then let off with a lap of honor around the city and then into the parking lot. Harley has for the next 36 hours vacation. Morning is going to go on foot through the city of 1000 temples that I will push through on foot.

Just down the road I find a nice garden restaurant, the Antique House Restaurant and there is the cheapest beer sold in all of Laos. Kip is 7500 (less than 10,000 or at least 8000, it is normally not) I've saved lots of money.

For dinner I have been fobbed me on the side of the road from a nice, old, tubby Lao woman for their sandwiches. A normal good Lao food in a restaurant costs as the 25,000, 15,000 and my sandwich costs it took two to be filled, well I had previously saved the beer.

And then the whole night diarrhea. I am sure that the good woman her own sandwich has never tasted. With so they would have a diarrhea can never be perfectly round.

Day 15

0 km (but at least gelatscht 10) Wats, temples and pagodas are beautiful really, but just a lot of them. Eventually, they will see all kind of similar. After I'm climbing around all morning and had photographed everything I need to prove that I was here, I admit defeat and ueblerlasse the monasteries the monks again, which it in Luang Prabang is indeed more than enough.

The highest point in Luang Prabang

Impressive budhist statues standing around everywhere

On my way through the city I have also purchased some cuddly, little girls, the obligatory backpacker Bracelets. These things indeed are worth nothing, but cost more so. Thus, a braided plastic cord costs the same time USD 3.75, not bad, the woodpecker, but the little girls were all sooo sweet.

Now I have a bracelet for: good luck, for one: money for the school, for one: money for the family and even for one: lots of luck and I come back here again here. The next for: money for the school I will not buy more because I already knew the saying yes.

Nevertheless, as I said, Luang Prabang is truly the most beautiful city I have ever seen in Asia. Really worth seeing.

Since I did not want my toilet-night repeat must, I opted for a dinner at one of the most expensive-looking restaurants. Bakery & Pizza House in Luang Prabang, right on the main street. The pizza for 70 000 Kip was hard, and besides the wabbligen part in the middle, not really edible without special tools. (Good luck in Bakery & Pizza House Luang Prabang ... and as a business idea for Luang Prabang lovers: dentist practice next door, should go well!) The beer will cost exactly twice as much as in "my favorite pub around the corner from my guesthouse. Since I am now and then also have tried the beer-average price to reduce as much as possible.

Day 16

230 km Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

At 4:00 I was awakened by massive Regenstuermen. I am not sure whether it continues today. So turn up so loud music, so that I and probably all the remaining guests in the hotel, hear the rain no longer turn around and sleep on.

9:00 still heavy rain. According to reports, there were serious mountain-slide on the route between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Tourists roll in the ready-tell horror stories of 23 hour bus ride / wait / ride. statements after apparently desperate to close the entire route from here is filled to Vang Vieng! At 10.00 while it hears the rain but new and tighter controls are vorrausgesagt rainfall, so at least says my host, who really want me to stay a few days.

With some doubts in the belly about the wisdom of my decision, I make myself still pack to the saddle bags and motorcycle.

At 11:00 I take my leave of the hospitable people in the Suan Kaew Guest House and make me despite all the warnings on the road. The option to soon be back again, I leave myself open, however. On the other hand it's quite easy to calculate that if it rains again and stronger, then do nothing more comes tomorrow and I'm really stuck here for some time.

So, off we go, Only then about 150 km on the N # 13, again over the mountains to Phou Khoun.

As is first a big market, I will watch me and second the diversion of where I'm at Herweg bent right to come to Ponh Savanh. At this junction, therefore, then closes the circle and from then on it's back on familiar roads the way back to Vang Vieng.

I've raved about in my former reports, more than enough about the streets, the nature of the thousands of giant curves, mountain villages, children etc. Nevertheless, it had the first 120 km from Luang Prabang to Phou Khoun again really in itself. Everything that has gone before has been surpassed once again. Just indescribable.

Sun 30 miles before I reach the junction is known release. Because really massive landslides had been sent over the whole road. There must be run down half the mountain. I can imagine that it must be here before the trip last night, in darkness and heavy rain, the purest hell.

Evacuated but still slippery ziehmlich

Nevertheless, or precisely therefore, Lao hat off to the organizers. Excavators, bulldozers, snow plows and what else is in full use and completely cleared of the road. But this does not mean that not more than enough runs down the mountain mud and the road around the whole thing so slippery and slimy as you can make. A lightweight but extremely annoying drizzle sets in and makes everything worse. Cars stuck everywhere and trucks loaded with blocked wheels slipping backwards down the road again. I watch as a tanker truck sliding backwards straight into the ditch. For cars there is no passage possible, not in the next few hours, anyway.

Since I am the same, proud head held vorbeiduesen!

With the scooter, well. Both boots as Stuetzraeder users, up sticking to their ankles in mud, I see probably more like such a ski-bob-driver, or so, but it goes slowly but steadily uphill.

A few games were already slipping become due but a drop could be prevented until the end. So I made my way, proud and grinning all over with your head held high, all waiting cars, buses and excited tourists, pigs, chickens, goats, etc., through all the rotten mud holes up and back down the mountain. Approximately 50 km, of which at least half of the slip was a terrible game.

The hats will not make it that gives the word "Truck Stop" but also like a new importance

At the market in Phou Khoun I'm about three hours later vorbeigerutscht.

But eventually even that was over, the eternal, annoying drizzle to listen, the clouds clear and sun rays get through.

The last 50 km down the hill to Vang Vieng is again a dream and is quickly forgotten the whole mud-ingot. At the beginning I'm still a bit wobbly on his legs. The muddy soles of the feet constantly slipping screens and the wheels and fenders are completely filled with clay and mud. A couple of slippery curves are later then at least half the tires clean and I am now so fast that the dirt so slowly and solves (most of time is about me, everything else thrown me in the face) in a high arc away. So I have one in-self-cleansing moped, that is good!

Unbelievable training and views

With blue skies and sunshine, it then goes down through the beautiful valley of the mountain and cheerful in front of the helmet-me-out-whistling, back in the direction of Vang Vieng. The children wave no more, in my view, some hide behind their parents, others run Catholic church behind the house or behind / under woodpile!? Although it took me almost 6 hours for 230 km, I am glad (and proud) that I am now set out. And soon I sat back in the Aussie bar in Vang Vieng and I've only once Strengthen the dust / mud washed out of the throat. A few beers later and still in the filthy twine and shoe then I went to my old inn on to ask for a room. After I had some mud from my face, I was again recognized and welcomed kindly.

Madness, which for a ride back to Vang Vieng!

Day 17

Until now, 0 km, cozy breakfast, write this report and any further plans. Before tomorrow nothing more happens great. In my more than wet enough 'glissade, which I enjoyed yesterday, I do not even out with the swimming tires again be wet and dirty. So I am sure ziehmlich one of the first tourists, who were twice in Vang Vieng and not gone through the tubing and thus have acquired a right to wear the "Tubing T-Shirt".

Since I am the total outsider, but happy and alive.

The fourth Part of my report will follow soon ... yes. If someone is too boring, not just look ... ... ..

Greetings from Vang Vieng,

Cheers, and keep the rubber side down!

Werner, your Lone Brother in Laos

Laos Tour: "ma leabt oamol only"

... The second part!

... As I have already mentioned, the Full Moon Cafe in Vientiane is worth a visit. I then discovered in the evening, although a few bars, the second night is always better than having first to cut it from the stool but not really.

Good food, cold beer, very friendly waiters and free WiFi, in here is the first part of my trip report emerged.

Day 8

Vientiane - Vang Vieng

Ca. 270 km (including senseless detour)

6:00 reveille, I can not wait to do next. The main reason of my journey is so motorcycling and the day will I make again.

View of the sky: cloudy cloudy, everyone would be smarter to bed again, but just ... stop any smarter, that I do not have to be yes.

Bags invite saddle scooter and go into dim in the day.

Ich hatte geplant wiedereinmal etwas von der Route 13 zu streunen, mich bei der Stadtausfahrt rechts zu halten und ueber Keun zum Ang Nam Ngun See hoch zu fahren, da dann links halten und bei Phonhong dann auf die Hauptstrasse nach Vang Vieng zu stossen.

Am grossen Denkmal vorbei und raus gehts aus der Stadt, rein in den Regen.

Ein Versuch war es ja wert. Eine Strasse habe ich ja gefunden, aber entweder habe ich mich da irgendwo verfahren oder es war wieder so ein Trick auf meiner Karte, irgendwelche Strassen rot anzumalen und dann ist es doch wieder eine Schlammstrasse. Da es mittlerweile wieder zu regnen angefangen hat und sich der ganze Lehm bei diesem Wetter in unpassierbaren Schlamm verwandelt, beschliese ich umzukehren, zurueck nach VT zu fahren und die Fernstrasse # 13 zu suchen und heute brav dabei zu bleiben.

Naja, die ersten 80 km hatte ich somit schon beieinander.

Nun geht es doch weiter, Richtung Vang Vieng. Das Wetter wird ein bisschen besser und ich habe 2 schoene Stunden fahrt. Die Strasse ist nicht so gut wie sie im Norden war aber ok, kein Problem ich komme gut voran.

Dann natuerlich so ca 50 km bevor ich Vang Vieng erreiche faengt es wieder so richtig zu regnen an. Aber ich hatte da heute ein bisschen Glueck im Unglueck.

Nach 15 min Regenfahrt hatte ich die erste Regenfront hinter mir, konnte aber den naechsten Regenschauer schon vor mir sehen.

Da hatte ich also Regen hinter mir, dann 2 km freie Fahrt und dann wieder Regen vor mir. Super, und ich mitten drin.

Da muss ich hin, und es regnet in stroemen!

Der Plan ist einfach: wenn ich langsam genug fahre dann bleibe ich zwischen den 2 Regenfronten und komme halbwegs trocken in VV an. Der Regen zog schoen langsam, genau in die richtige Richtung und der Plan koennte klappen. Das Problem war nur, der Regen zog etwas zu langsam weiter, somit hatte ich ca 3 min fahrt und dann wieder 15 minuten Pause bis mein “Gutwetterloch” wieder ueber mir war.

Das hat dann doch ziehmlich lange gedauert. 3 min fahrt, 1 Bier, 3 min fahrt, 1 Bier, 3 min fahrt, 1 Bier, usw….bis VV. Ich kenne jetzt alle kleinen Kneipen und dehren Verkaeuferinnen am Strassenrand, habe 19 Heiratsantraege abgelehnt, 7 Ehen versprochen und jeder kann sich vorstellen in was fuer einem Zustand ich war als ich so mehr schlecht als recht dann endlich in VV eingetrudelt bin. Das heist, erst habe ich das Dorf sogar verpasst in meiner Fahrt von Kuehlschrank zu Kuehlschrank. Ich habe das Schild erst bei der Dorf Ausfahrt bemerkt (See you again in Vang Vieng, have a nice trip…stand da drauf). Da war ich schon ein paar km ueber mein eigentliches Ziehl hinausgeschossen und meine letzten paar stops haette ich mir eigentlich sparen koennen.

Naja, zurueck wollte ich jetzt auch nicht mehr unbedingt und habe zum Glueck ein tolles Gasthaus, 30 m von der Hauptstrasse, direkt am Fluss gefunden.

Das SCK Guesthouse, USD 7.50 absolut sauber, total tolle Lage und ich war der einzige Gast. Da war nur eine alte Frau und ein junges Maedchen im Dienst. Ich glaube die haben sich ein bisschen vor mir gefuerchtet als ich da in meinem Zustand mit meinem Moped durch die Tuer ins Restaurant reingefahren (gepurzelt) kam. Aber wir haben uns dann bald glaenzend verstanden und ich wurde nicht rausgeschmissen. Nach einigem hin und her, die Unterhandlungen wurden hauptsaechlich auf Deutsch gelallt, aber ich glaube meine Handzeichen sind verstanden worden, habe auch ein Zimmer gekriegt.

Truebe Aussicht, bei Ankunft im SCK Guesthaus am ersten Abend

Tag 9

20 km VV und regen bis mittag.

Ich glaube ich war richtig froh, dass der Regen mir eine Ausrede verschaffte um bis Mittags im Bett zu bleiben. Nachmittags besserte sich das Wetter ein bisschen und ich konnte ein wenig los und die Gegend erkunden.

Ich bin die 5 km zuruck bis ins Dorfzentrum und sieh da, da ist ja richtig was los.

Da gabs auch die “Aussie Bar”, kaltes Bier, viele gute Tips und nette Unterhaltung, recht gutes Essen.

Bei schoenem Wetter sieht doch alles gleich viel besser aus

Die Hauptattracktion in Vang Vieng, ausgenommen des unglaublich schoenen Ausblicks auf die Lime stone Berge, ist das Tubing.

Das geht so: Da mietet man einen alten LKW Schlauch um 6,5 Dollar, faehrt mit dem Tuk-Tuk (locales Mini Transportmittel) so ca 5 km den Fluss hoch. Da betrinkt mann sich dann so schnell und heftig wie moeglich, ein paar joints (oderwassonstnochsoalles) duerfen dabei auch nicht fehlen. Dann wirft mann den Reifen in den Fluss, versucht hinterherzuspringen und sich daran festzuhalten. Wenn mann den Schlauch verpasst, dann ertrinkt mann, was anscheinend doch recht oft passiert. Falls mann Glueck hat und mann erwischt sein “Treibgut”. Dann klammert mann sich daran fest, oder im Optimalfall klettert mann rauf und laesst sich den Fluss runter treiben.

Da treibt mann dann an vielen kleinen Bars vorbei, wo die Besitzer die noch Lebenden an Land ziehen und noch mehr Alkohol (und/oder Drogen) einfloessen und wenn dann kein Geld mehr zu holen ist, dann werden die Passagiere wieder auf die Fahrt geschickt.

Einige haben dann Glueck und schaffen es sich im Dorfzentrum von VV wieder ans Festland zu retten, andere treiben hilflos weiter, andere kommen nie oder hoechstens woanders an. Und wenn mann seinen alten Reifen nicht bis 6.00 abends zurueckgebracht hat muss mann nocheinmal 2.50 US draufzahlen. Wenn mann in Vang Vieng “IN” sein will, dann muss mann das gemacht haben und ein T-shirt tragen, welches dieses auch bestaetigt. Am besten noch ein bisschen body-painting dazu und mann wird zum Held.

Ich habs nicht gemacht, ich hatte irgendwie noch mehr als genug von meiner Fahrt in dieses schoene Dorf, aber ich komme ja auf meinem Rueckweg wieder durch VV, vielleicht riskiere ich dann mein Leben….ma leabt jo nur oamol, odr?

Da all diejenigen, die es auf der richtigen Seite des Flusses geschafft haben sich underhalb der Stadt noch ans Ufer zu retten, dann natuerlich herauflatschen mussten, sind da den ganzen Abend noch so einige Verzweifelte an der Aussie Bar vorbeigetorkelt. Die letzten Halb-Wasserleichen sah ich so um halb zwoelf, da bin ich dann zurueck in mein Hotel und ins Bett.

Tag 10 5 km

Super Wetter, Hotel wechseln, da ich immer noch der einzige Gast im SCK war, bin ich mir so ein bisschen wie in Steven King's “Shining” vorgekommen. Die alte Frau, das kleine Maedel und ich (das quietschende Kinder-Fahrrad oder Dreirad was da war hat gerade noch gefehlt).

Einchecken im Sovanaiphat hotel. USD 5.–. Neue Zimmer, absolute sauber, heisse Dusche, TV und Moped parkt in der Eingangshalle. Wunderbar.

Das Wetter ist mittlerweile gut und ich schau mir das Dorf und die Umgebung an.

Links zur Brownie Bar, rechts zur Smile Bar, wer die Wahl hat, hat die Qual, das kalte Bier und die laute Musik sind auf der anderen Seite!

Wohnwagen zu vermieten! Gesehen in Vang Vieng Laos. Das gibt doch dem Wort “Trailer Trash” gleich eine ganz neue Bedeutung, oder?

Anscheinend war ich nicht der einzige der durch den vielen Regen gelitten hat. Da steht so ziehmlich vieles unter Wasser.

So duerfte es aussehen, wenn das Geschaeft buchstaeblich den Bach runter geht.

Keine Rede von Wasser-Knappheit in Vang Vieng

Aber ein paar Sonnenstrahlen und ein bisschen blauer Himmel lassen die Stimmung steigen. Die Umgebung von Vang Vieng ist wirklich unwarscheinlich schoen, beeindruckend. Trotzt Regenzeit, treiben sich mehr Touristen rum als ich den letzten 2 Monaten in Kambodscha gesehen habe. Das ganze Dorf feiert party und es ist wirklich richtig gemuetlich hier.

Ein paar Fotos schiessen, Abendessen und frueh ins Bett. Bei diesem Wetter will ich morgen weiter.

Tag 11 Vang Vieng – Phon Savanh

Ca. 250 km

Der absolute Wahsinn!!! Die schoenste Motorrad Tour die ich jeh gemacht habe. Die ersten 120 oder so km geht es in unzaehligen Kurven durchs Gebirge. Fantastische Ausblicke, unglaubliche Bergformationen, einfach Atemberaubend.

Super Strassen, einige Stellen waren zwar in schlechtem Zustand, aber der Grossteil der Strecke war perfekt. Unglaublich wenig Verkehr, ich glaube ich habe 4 Autos ueberhohlt und ca 10 sind mir entgegengekommen. Ein Traum fuer jeden Motorrad Fahrer. (Falls jemand Lust hat……also ich komme wieder mit).

Jedes Dorf malerischer als das vorherige, Kinder winken am Strassenrand. Ganze Doerfer jubeln und kreischen hinter mir her. Eine Super Stimmung.

Das groesste Problem: Vor lauter Kurven, hatte ich zu wenig Zeit zum Schauen, und vor lauter Schauen hatte ich ein paar mal fast zu wenig Zeit um die Kurven noch zu kriegen. Super Fahrt, nur zum empfehlen. Ich kann gar nicht genug frohlocken…..

So ungefaehr 45 km vor Ponh Savanh kommen dann endlich die vorverlegten Fussraster zum Einsatz. Die Spitzkehren und Serpentinen nehmen ein Ende und da wird dann der 5. Gang eingelegt, die Beine nach vorne ausgestreckt. Gemuetlich gehts mit 2000 rpm's, das gibt mir so ca 75/80 km/h in Richtung Ziel.

Die perfekte Strasse schlaengelt sich in vielen langgezogenen Kurven durch eine wunderbare Huegellandschaft in Richtung Provinz-Hauptstadt.

Um 3.00 komme ich in Ponh Savanh an, finde gleich ein gutes Hotel. Heute leiste ich mir ein bisschen Luxus, der perfekte Abschluss fuer einen perfekten Tag.

Heute gibts das beste Hotel am Platz: Das Anoulack Khen Lao Hotel. So richtig mit Empfangshalle, Wifi im Zimmer, Aufzug (kein Taschen schleppen) Einwandfreies Zimmer mit Lichtschalter neben dem Bett (kein Aufstehen und Lichtabschalten nach dem Lesen), Restaurant im 5. Stock, Air Con, TV, usw. usw. Einfach alles. Egal was es kostet, ich nehme es heute. Dann, sieh da USD 19.–. Was fuer eine positive Ueberraschung, das kann ich mir sogar leisten.

Ein ganz netter Kerl am Empfang spricht gutes Englisch und ich frage ihn auch gleich ueber alles aus. Ich erfahre dass es bis zu den Ebenen der Steinkruege nur 12 km sind und die Strasse soll gut sein.

Gepaeck ins Zimmer und ab gehts. Leichte Montur, rauf aufs Moped und diese Steintassen anschauen gehen.

Mitten in einer wunderschoen gelegenen Huegel Landschaft liegen dann die Sogenannten “Plains of Jars”. Es gibt da 3 oder 4 verschiedene Stellen wo mann diese Kruege findet, ich entscheide mich fuer “Site 1” da soll es die groessten und meisten geben (und ausserdem ist es am naehsten).

Faszinierend, da liegen doch so 2 ½ meter hohe Steinkruege in der Wiese rum. Die Dinger scheinen richtig alt zu sein und anscheinend weiss keiner was die jemals fuer einen Zweck erfuellt haben oder wie die dahin gekommen sind.

Unglaublich schoen, ein weiteres highlight am heutigen Tag…es koennte nicht besser kommen.

Die Ebene der Stein Kruege

Unglaublich, die groessten der Kruege sind ueber 2 1/2 meter hoch.

Und jetzt freue ich mich auf ein gutes Abendessen, und ab in mein Luxuszimmer, das habe ich ja nicht umsonst bezahlt.

Teil 3 des Reiseberichts folgt sicher bald

Gruss aus Phon Savanh, and keep the rubberside down

Werner, the Lone Brother in Laos

Ma leabt nur oamol!

Meine Schwester Babs hat mir vor ungefaehr einem Jahr ein T-shirt geschenkt, mit dem Aufdruck: Ma leabt nur oamol! Was sie wohl damit gemeint hat?

Anyway: irgendwo ende juni habe ich mein Gasthaus in Sihanouk Ville (Cambodia), das “Ocean Pearl” dicht gemacht. Mit einem lachenden und einem weinendem Auge habe ich es dem vorherigen Mieter zurueckgegeben. Die Miete war einfach viel zu hoch und Touristen waren keine da. Alles aus der eigenen Tasche bezahlen hat mir gar nicht gefallen. Nunja, ploetzlich: kein Job, kein Haus, keine Arbeit, keine Aufgabe….!!! Bei meinem Kumpel ein Zimmer mieten, kein Problem, aber was macht man mit soviel Freizeit. ….natuerlich Biertrinken! Das wurde mir nach ein paar Tagen dann auch zu langweilig. Beim Bude ausraeumen ist mir das T-shirt in die Haende gefallen: Ma leabt nur oamol! Das gab mir den Ruck! Moped satteln und ab nach Laos. Da wollte ich immer schon hin und jetzt hab ich Zeit. Also: meiner Schwester Babs und mir zum Guten: die Laos Tour: “Ma leabt nur oamol!”

Tag 1. Sihanouk Ville – Phnom Penh 240 km,

schon 100x gefahren, nix aufregendes. Fuer alle die es nicht kennen: Die Strasse ist gut, jede Menge Kuehe und Wasserbueffel sowie Hunde und eben Cambodianer auf dem Weg, die alle nur eine Verkehrsregel kennen: Wiedergeburt! Also fuer alle mitdenken und es geht schon. Wetter war mehr oder weniger gut, also kein Problem. Erste Nacht im LUX Hotel. Unglaublich preiswertes Hotel direct am Riverside. Kompletter Luxus fuer USD 30.– , einfach empfehlenswert. Naja, von nun an gehts dann wohl bergab.

2nd Phnom Penh – Stung Treng 450 km

schon einigemale gefahren, nicht viel aufregendes. Wieder: fuer alle die es nicht kennen: Die ersten 70 km aus PP raus, ein haufen Verkehr, viele Baustellen und eben Wiedergeburt als einzig bekannte und wahrgenommenen Verkehrsregel. Danach geht es gut. Ungefaehr 30 km nach Kompong Cham, ueber die grosse Mekong Bruecke gibt eine Abkuerzung nach Kratie, da wuerde man sich so eine Stunde Fahrt sparen. Da es natuerlich direkt nach Kompong Cham angefangen hat zu regnen und die Sicht gleich null war, habe ich diese Abfahrt natuerlich verpasst und bin aussen rum gefahren. Vielleicht war es gut so. Mann faehrt da durch Memot und anschliessend durch die ganzen Kautschuk Plantagen, Die Strasse ist fantastisch und die Ausblicke genauso. Eine frische Briese weht, solange man durch den Wald faehrt. Super Strecke. Von Kratie nach Stung Treng ist die Strasse mittlerweile auch sehr gut, obwohl die ersten 50 km nach der Abzweigung sehr viele Baustellen sind, die nach Cambodianischer Weise einfach dadurch gekennzeichnet sind, dass einige Aeste auf der Fahrbahn liegen……..und hinter jedem Ast ist ein tiefes Loch, also aufpassen und schon geht es. Zweite Nacht: einchecken im Riverside Café in Stung Treng. Province Guesthouse um USD 5.–, was kann mann also erwarten. Aber es ist ok. Die Zimmer sind sauber, leider keine heisse Dusche, aber das Moped parkt ueber nacht in der Kneipe, das ist dann schon mal ein Vorteil.

Tag 3. Stung Treng – Pakse Ca 220 km, incl. Ueberquerung der Grenze

Von Stung Treng bis zur Grenze: kein Problem, super Strasse, schoene Landschaft, alles vom Feinsten. Bei der Ausreise aus Cambodia geht alles recht flott. Mein multiple entry business visa hilft dabei und alles ist kein Problem. Da muss ich noch zu Customs office um mitzuteilen dass ich mein Motorrad mit nach Laos nehme und dann natuerlich wieder zurueckbringen moechte. Der Officer fraegt mich ganz hoeflich um USD 10.—ich biete 5.—und da er recht freundlich ist, kriegt er dann USD 7.50 damit sich alle freuen. Auf gehts nach Laos. Zoll Formalitaeten kein Problem, ich hatte mein Visa zuvor in PP, an der Laotischen Botschaft geholt. Gueltig fuer 2 Monate, allerdings nur 30 Tage von Einreise bis Ausreise. Wunderbar, los geht die Fahrt. Ca 2 km nach der Grenze, kommt dann das Laotische Customs office, rechts ran, rein ins Buero und ein sehr freundlicher Officer kuemmert sich um mich und meine Motorrad. “ Aha, You want to stay in Laos for 7 days…..!?!” Ich schau in ein wenig entgeistert an und frage was er mit “7 Tagen” meint. Er zeigt auf mein Cambodianisches Custom papier worauf klipp und klar geschrieben steht, das die Ausreise meines Motorrades vom 18. July bis 25. July gemeldet ist. Ich nehme mein Papier wieder, zurueck zur Laotischen Ausreise, jedem erklaeren dass hier ein Problem voliegt. Ueber die Grenze nach Cambodia, wieder jedem das selbe erklaeren, …alles laechelt…. Rein zum Customs officer. Neues Papier auf einen Monat ausstellen. Noch einmal USD 2.50 bezahlen. Jetzt hat er die 10.—die er von Anfang an wollte und ich habe meine Papiere, also alle sind zufrieden, und ich mache mich wieder auf den Weg….das zweite mal ueber die Grenze nach Laos. Beim Laotischen Customs office kennen mich alle schon und begruessen mich recht freundlich. Alles wird abgestempelt, ein kleines Trikgeld fuer den Officer, der mich so freundlich darauf aufmerksam gemacht hat, dass ich in 7 Tagen wieder raus sein sollte ist faellig und alle freuen sich und los gehts zur ersten Destination in Laos. Die Mekong Wasserfalle sind ungefaehr 5 km nach der Grenze, und dieses Spektakel muss ich mir unbedingt ansehen. Schoen, da laeuft ein Haufen Wasser den Bach runter und macht einen Riesen Laerm.

Last look at Stung Treng, over the bridge, it then goes on to Laos

The first street sign in Lao language

Mekong Wasserfaelle, kurz nach der Grenze in Laos

Naechster Stop: Die 4000 Inseln im Mekong. Ca 25 km von der Grenze. Ich fahre bis zur Bootsanlegestelle und erkundige mich nach den Moeglichkeiten die es gibt, mich und mein Motorrad auf die groesste der Inseln zu bringen. Mir wird eine Konstruktion vogefuehrt, vobei 2 Kanus zusammengenagelt wurden, mit ein paar Balken dazwischen und mir wird versichert, dass da meine 250 kg Harley, mein 50 kg Gepaeck und ich mit meinen 100 kg locker draufpassen. Da ich mich erst am Anfang meiner Reise befinde, habe ich beschlossen mein Motorrad nicht gleich im Mekong zu versenken. Ich lehne dankend ab und fahre weiter nach Pakse. Wenn ich schon all mein Hab und Gut im Mekong versenken soll, dann bitte am Ende meiner Reise, dann hatte ich wenigstens was davon. Da ich ja auf der selben Strecke zurueck kommen werde, verschiebe ich dieses Abenteuer auf spaeter. Auf nach Pakse, Strasse absolute super, kein Problem. Einchecken im …..Guesthouse, habe den Namen leider vergessen. USD 12.—relative sauber, kein Problem. Zum Dinner gehts ins Pakse Hotel. Das lokale Beef steak, genauso zaeh wie in Cambodia, das Lao Bier ist in Cambodia billiger. 1.50 die Dose ist genug, aber was solls: Ma leabt nur oamol! Beim Abendessen habe ich ein Schweizer Paerchen kennen gelernt, die mit dem Tandem unterwegs sind. Sie haben Laos mehr oder weniger hinter sich gebracht und sind auf dem Weg nach Cambodia. Wir tauschen Erfahrungen aus und geben uns gegenseitig wichtige Tips. Auch die Strassen Karten werden getauscht und das erste mal sehe ich auf einer Karte wo ich eigentlich bin. Grossartig.

Tag 4. Pakse – Savannakhet (ca 400km)

Da ich ja nun eine Strassen Karte besitze, bin ich natuerlich mutig und nehme nicht den geraden Weg (Highway No 13) sondern ich fahre ueber Pakxong nach Saravane um dann spaeter bei Napong wieder auf den Highway No 13 zu stossen und dann nach Savannaketh zu fahren. Alles in allem ca 400 km und die Strassen sind auf meiner Karte rot eingezeichnet, was fuer mich gut aussieht. Alles faengt auch wunderbar an. Die Strasse von Pakse nach Pakxong ist fantastisch. Mit vielen Kurven schlaengelt sie sich den Berg hoch. Ich erreiche das Hochplateau wo viel von dem beruehmten Lao Coffee angebaut wird. Weiter geht es auf einer fantastischen Strasse bergab nach Saravane. Durch schoene Holz und Bambus Doerfer, vorbei an lokalen Maerkten, wo Sachen angeboten werden, die ich zwar nie essen wuerde aber es ist interessant das ganze anzusehen. Wunderbar.

Kleiner Wasserfall und Bambus Bruecke auf dem Weg nach Pakxong
Gottseidank, muss ich mit meinem Moped nicht ueber diese Bruecke, ein paar Meter Flussabwaerts gibt es eine Andere, eine etwas mehr Vertrauenswuerdige Metall und Holz Konstruktion.

Then, shortly before Saravan left and find the way to Napong. No problem, the diversion is there, but unfortunately no more road. Since so leads on a dirt road. I've differently. I must therefore have procedures. After long wandering in the town I find a tourist agency to provide information. Pure and surprise here is very good spoken English. I ask for the right way to Napong, get my information, I think exactly the statement and I am exactly 2 hours later again on the same path that I wanted to take the first time not already. That must be so well after all. Since this road on my map even as thick "Red" is located, which can then surely be only half as bad, I guess, and there you go. Tank full and the best hope, this road must surely be better after a few km, finally, it is indeed to Highway No. 15th Which was unfortunately not the case. It is a clay and mud road. The entire 80 km to Napong, a nightmare for drivers and moped. On a dirt bike it would be an certainly been fun, with a fully loaded Harley I would now recommend that anyone actually more.

Highway No. 15!

Dust and goats! ... And me.

Since I was not sure but then if I'm on the right road, I would have liked to ask someone, but it was difficult ziehmlich!

Well done, I have to go at it again Napong on Highway No. 13th and all is well again. A sharp rain forces me a two Beery hiatus, which I easily cope and on it goes to Savannakhet. The first guest house I find: Phonevilay Hotel and Resort Riverside or something similar. USD 7.50 for a room with A / C, hot shower, refrigerator full of beer and TV ... I suppose. Check writing this report here and now I make my first time to food search. See you later.

Phonevilay Guest House in Savanaketh

Day 5 In Savannaketh: 45 km through the village

Tankestelle suchen, Richtiges Motoren-Oel finden, Oel wechseln, Alle Schrauben nachziehen (Harley Fahrer wissen warscheinlich wovon ich rede). Ansonsten hauptsaechlich faulenzen und am Nachmittag schaue ich mir noch das Dinosaurier Museum an. Das ganze ist zwar ein bisschen uebertrieben als Museum betittelt, das ist naemlich nur ein Raum mit ein paar Knochen, aber immerhin: Ich habe noch nie einen Saurierknochen aus der Nahe gesehen und die Dinger sind wirklich ziehmlich gross. Ausserdem war mir gar nie so richtig bewusst das diese Viecher auch in Asien rumgelatscht sind, sonst hoert mann das doch eigentlich nur immer so von Amerika…(ich jedenfalls, aber da sieht man halt wie wenig mann weiss.)

Grosse Knochen in Savannaketh's Sauriermuseum

Tag 6 Savannaketh – Vientiane Ca 500 km ueber Tahkek

Die Strecke fuehrt mich hauptsaechlich entlang des highway 13. In Tahkek einen kurzen Abstecher zur Grossen Mauer. Ich bin mir zwar nicht ganz im Klaren ob das einfach ein Stueck Felsen ist dass da wie eine gigantische Mauer aus dem Boden ragt oder ob dieses Ding wirklich als Mauer gebaut wurde. Keine Ahnung, sieht auf alle Faelle wichtig aus. Da musste ich einfach raufkraxeln. Allerdings ist auch dieser Abstecher nicht unbedingt weiterzuempfehlen falls das Fortbewegungsmittel ein grosses Motorrad ist. Ich glaube meine Sporty glaubt mittlerweile dass sie 4-Rad Antrieb hat, so wie ich damit durch's Gelaende gurke. Aber bisher hat alles geklappt und das Moped ist immer noch in einem Stueck. Gott sei dank!

“Great Wall” in Tahkek und mein “Allrad Fahrzeug”!

Raufkraxeln war natuerlich ein MUSS!

Danach gehts wieder auf den highway 13 und ab nach Vientiane. Annscheinend habe ich das Glueck, dass es immer kurz vor ich ein Ziel erreiche, anfaengt zu regnen. Also, meine Einfahrt in Vientiane wieder “watschelnass” und damit ist natuerlich auch die Suche nach einer passenden Unterkunft umso dringender. Bisher hatte ich ja immer Glueck, aber dieses mal so richtig Pech. Das Zimmer in diesem Syri 2 Guesthouse ist so richtig das unterste gerade noch ertraegliche. Beim einziehen musste ich erst den Muelleimer leeren, die alten stinkenden Socken von meinem Vorgaenger waren da noch drin. Die Matratze ist ausgelutscht und das Bett steinhart. Das Badezimmer ist ziehmlich schmuddelig und verschimmelt, also duschen mit Badeschlapfen. Jeder Wasserhahn tropft usw. Nicht sehr empfehlenswert und fuer 90.000Kip (knapp ueber USD 11.–) auch nicht gerade das billigste in der Gegend. Alles in allem eine 3 Dollar Absteige, aber was solls: Ich bin total nass von Kopf bis Fuss, es wird langsam dunkel und ich bin ziehmlich fertig. Also ein Biss in den sauren Apfel, morgen geht's ja wieder weiter, eine Nacht ist zu ueberleben.

Tag 7

7.00 frueh aufwachen und grosse Vorfreude auf die Weiterfahrt. Da mein Zimmer kein Fenster hat muss ich erst auf die andere Seite des Gebaeudes um mal zu sehen wie das Wetter ist damit ich weiss was ich anziehen will. ….Stroemender Regen. Keine Weiterfahrt in Sicht und bei diesem Wetter will ich auch nicht raus um mir ein anderes Zimmer zu suchen. Also wieder rein in meine harte Pritsche und ein bisschen lesen. Um 10 Uhr ist die naechste Wetterkontrolle. Wieder nix also noch eine Nacht in Vientiane. Vientiane ist eigentlich die Hauptstadt von Laos und mann wuerde sich vorstellen, dass hier einiges los ist….ist aber nicht. Ausser Tempeln und Moenchen sind hier nur jede Menge Touristen unterwegs die alte halberfallene Haeuser bewundern und alle sind sich einig dass das schoen ist. Die ganze Mekong Riverfront ist eine Baustelle und fuer den groessten Teil ist die Sicht auf den Fluss und das dahinterliegende Thailand durch einen blauen Blech-Bauzaun verbaut. Wir hatten das ja in Phnom Penh letztes Jahr, und was dabei rauskam war wohl kaum das warten wert. Beim spazieren durch die Stadt, bitte immer auf die Strasse schauen, ein falscher Schritt und schon stehtst du in einem Haufen Hundesche…..e. Tagsueber gibt es zwar jede Menge Kneipen, die ihr gutes Essen, Wifi und tolle Atmosphaere anpreisen, nur leider ist fast nix geoeffnet. Hier ist es so als ob jeder den ganzen Tag Tempel anschauen muesste. Das Leben beginnt um 8.00 Abends und hoert um 11.45 auf. Die Oeffnungszeiten der meisten Kneipen ist von 18.00 bis 11.30. Unglaublich, und das in der Hauptstadt. Um Mitternacht werden dann die Gehsteige hochgeklappt, alle Bars, Restaurants usw zugenagelt und vergittert und alles ist dunkel wie im Mittelalter. Nachtleben in Vientiane: habe ich leider nicht gefunden aber sicher steht irgendwas gutes darueber im Lonely Planet. Warscheinlich muss ich mir doch noch so eine Backpacker Bibel kaufen.

Mehr oder weniger durch Zufall bin ich heute in das “Full Moon Café” gestolpert. Das liegt an einer Seitenstrasse ab von der Riverfront. Recht gutes Essen und Wifi verfuegbar. Hier kann ich mir den Nachmittag um die Ohren schlagen. Da dieses Café eines der wenigen zu sein scheint das tagsueber offen hat, geht es hier auch recht geschaeftig zu. Restaurant und Terrasse sind die ganze Zeit uber voll belegt. Die Kellner sind recht freundlich und das Bier ist gut gekuehlt. Jetzt ist es 15.20, und es regnet immer noch. Ich hoffe, es hoert bald auf und ich kann morgen weiter fahren.

....

Der Zweite Teil meines Reiseberichts wird bald folgen…

Cheers and keep the rubberside down

Greetings

Werner, Your Lone Brother in Laos

Harley Davidson for sale

we have a 2007 Harley Davidson Model 883 for sale, tax and duty paid, ready to register.

Parked in Snookyville. Price: somewhere around the 7.800 U $ Ds only!

top condition, fuel injection, screaming eagle pipes and airfilter, two handlebars to choose, on the standard sporty (as in the pic) or some Apehanger.

@ Werner 012 975 654

Have a look, get the papers ready and join us for the next ride ....

Keep the rubberside down

Werner

Claus and the Lone Brothers cook every 2 weeks a particularly juicy smoked ham in a fully Riesenpot sauerkraut (only the best ham in Phnom Penh Lanzi we do well enough). The knuckle is then hung on the gallows in the bar and shredded professionally.

The "ham-eating" has now become one of the culinary highlights of in Sihanoukville. It almost seems as if these parts are jades times smaller. In any case, the ham is always faster gnawed to the bone.

More or less just split portions are served with Claus' home-made! Sharp! Refined mustard. His secret, he defies any of you want to hear it or not. Er sagt, er haut da einfach eine Ladung Wasabi rein, der jedem eingefleischten Bayern die Traenen in die Augen treiben.

Obs all tastes?

Voracious silence at the table says "more than 1000 words. Wenn alle so reinhauen hat der Koch wieder mal Glueck gehabt und er ist wieder fuer 2 Wochen sicher vor Beschimpfungen und uebler Nachrede.

And then we see the classic "after-image"!

Well, who's coming now, it is too late. How heist so beautiful: "He who comes late to the bite, the dogs". With those same each late attendance can then fight over the bones. But fortunately there is still beer and as always lots of fun in the booth, it is therefore not free.

Cheers and

Keep the rubberside down

The Lone Brothers

There are now more than 25 days elapsed in the new year and we still have nothing new written in, so it's about time.
At first everyone a happy new year from us.
A lot has happened with us, we had a visit from our brothers from England see the pictures, have made powerful party at Christmas and New Year.
Unfortunately, our Secretary fürAlex the year did not start quite as well. Ca.25km vor Phnom Penh ist ihm eine Kuh vor sein Motorrad gelatscht. Since all happened in a Ueberhohlvorgang he was now faced with the choice either to throw themselves under the recently overhauled truck or to take this cow on the horns. The short-term decision because the bad for the cow is down, of course somehow by itself, however, he had very much luck in the accident and he got it off better than the cattle that when leaving the accident scene, KO still lay on the ground. It's all ok again mitihm and his Motorrad.Vor a few days we made a trip to Kampot see the pictures, Kampot is a beautiful coastal town about 100km west of Sihanoukville. The next day were the Jesters with us to visit a friend of MC. from Thailand, our Road Captain, it has picked up on the border with Thailand, but unfortunately there was also an accident at the Jesters, but he also had luck in the misfortune of us all good again.

Since our Secretary  is a danger to the local cow population and he is usually the one who gets off better than his other accident participants we have decided to put up a test for all the fearless bikers who attempt to take on the Cambodian highways and all the ever-existing dangers.

Please make sure that you succeed in the following reaction time test before attempting to ride any vehicle on Cambodian roads.

reaction test
regards

and keep the rubberside down

the local Lone Brothers

Boxing Day Ham Carving

Dec. 26 ^th

At the

Lone Brothers Bar

­

Grab your juicy slice of smoked ham

Sauerkraut and boiled potatoes

Hot mustard

USD 4.— per portion

Happy hour Drinks all night

Buy 2 get the 3 ^rd for Free

333 Karaoke Street

www.lone-brothers-bar.com

Alle Jahre wieder….

…das waere ja was man eigentlich annehmen koennte, da aber jeder (jede) den eigenen Geburtstag verbissen an einem bestimmten Tag feiern will, passsiert es zwar wie gesagt alle Jahre wieder, aber halt eben oefters als einmal.

Da fuer uns und natuerlich in unserer Lone-Brothers bar jeder Grund gut genug ist um eine Party zu  feiern, sorgte der Geburtstag der “Lone Sister” Ada fuer den heiss begeehrten Anlass.

Da ja viele der Maedels nicht genau wissen wann sie Geburtstag haben, hat unser Praesident Claus beschlossen, dass dieser Geburtstag heuer am 26. November gefeiert wird, da Ada ja 26 Jahre alt wurde, passte das Datum wie massgeschneidert.

Die Feierlichkeiten verliefen natuerlich  phantastisch und alles nach Plan:

1.)    bunte Luftballons aufblasen

2.)    bunte Kleider anziehen

3.)    bunt schminken

4.)    bunte Torte in alle Gesichter schmieren

wie es sich halt gehoert, bei einer Cambodianischen Geburtstagsfeier.

Claus, laesst Ada hoch leben und somit sind allen Pflichten die zu so einer Party gehoeren genuege getan.

Danach geht es zum eigentlich wichtigeren Teil der Feierlichkeiten ueber. Das Bier fliesst in Stroemen und die ueblichen guten Ideen warden ausgeheckt.

Gefeiert wird dann bis in die fruehen Morgenstunden.

…und natuerlich steht im Morgengrauen der hauseigene Tuk Tuk bereit um diverse alkoholisiete und nicht mehr ganz fahrtaugliche Mitstreiter gesund zu hause abzuliefern.

Cheers!!!

Bis zum naechsten Mal

The Lone Brothers